Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success

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The Mountaineers Books, 2009 - 254 pagine
7 Recensioni
Sport climbers often project a route that tests their physical limits in hopes of an eventual completion, regardless of the number of attempts. Succeeding requires a solid understanding of belaying and other climbing techniques that are used in various climbing disciplines, but are detailed here specifically for sport climbing. Targeting varying abilities, Sport Climbing teaches climbers how to rehearse moves and train for routes, how to get through the pump, how to fight until the end of a pitch, how to stay composed when tired, and how to best use their bodies to climb efficiently and expertly. Whether inspiring new climbers to learn the nuances of scaling vertical terrain, or delving into a deeper, more conceptual understanding of how to go about projecting a route, Andrew Bisharat brings confidence and a level of practicality to the sport. He demonstrates how skills specific to redpointing transfer over to traditional climbing, making this a must-have book for any climber. Featuring tips from famous climbers such as Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold, the author brings a modern voice to a fun and exciting sport.
  

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Review: Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success

Recensione dell'utente  - shan - Goodreads

Great tips and techniqued outlined. I will put then into practice with our first outdoor sport climbing in 2 weeks! Leggi recensione completa

Review: Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success

Recensione dell'utente  - Agnes - Goodreads

Informative, sure, but also lovingly written. Bisharat's passion for climbing keeps this How To from becoming dull. Leggi recensione completa

Indice

Ethics style and the Emergence of Sport Climbing
26
THE BEAST CAME FROM TRAD
27
SPORT CLIMBING IS NEITHER?
29
BOLT WARS
31
WILD ETHICS
34
THE NEXT GENERATION
36
CHAPTER 2
41
Free Yourself With Great Climbing Technique
42
CHAPTER 7
145
Advanced Ropework Techniques for Leading and Cleaning
146
STICK CLIPPING
147
CLIPPING UP
152
RETRIEVING QUICKDRAWS
158
SO ARE YOU READY TO LEAD?
164
CHAPTER 8
167
Great Belaying
168

FOOTWORK
52
HANDHOLDS
55
BODY POSITIONS AND MOVEMENTS
59
CHAPTER 3
65
How to Choose It Use It and Keep It Safe
66
HARNESS
68
ROPES
70
QUICKDRAWS
72
BELAY DEVICES
74
HELMET
76
CHALKBAG AND CHALK
77
STICK CLIP
79
USEFUL MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS
80
SETTING UP YOUR RIG
81
CHAPTER 4
83
Tying In TopRoping and Cleaning an Anchor
84
KISS
86
HOW TO TOPROPE
92
GETTING LOWERED
93
HOW TO GO IN DIRECT
95
CLEANING AN ANCHOR
97
CHAPTER 5
103
Leading a Sport Climb
104
ANATOMY OF A SPORT CLIMB
105
OUT OF THE GYM AND OUT TO THE CRAG
107
FROM BOULDERING TO SPORT CLIMBING
110
MOVING FROM TOPROPING TO LEADING
111
HOW TO TALK TO YOUR BELAYER
112
THE LEADING PRIMER
115
CLIPPING QUICKDRAWS TO BOLTS
116
CLIPPING THE ROPE TO THE QUICKDRAW
119
ABCS OF THE ZCLIP
122
CLIPPING QUICKDRAWS TO THE ANCHOR
123
CHAPTER 6
127
The Art of Falling
128
TAKING THE WHIPPER 101
130
WHEN ITS NOT OKAY TO FALL
131
MASTERING THE FALLING MENTALITY
132
REGAINING YOUR HIGH POINT AFTER A FALL
136
TOP ROPE VS LEAD BELAY
169
LOADING AN ATC
171
TOPROPE BELAYING WITH AN ATC OR GRIGRI
172
LEAD BELAYING WITH AN ATC
176
LEAD BELAYING WITH A GRIGRI
178
SITUATIONAL TECHNIQUES FOR GREAT LEAD BELAYING
182
GIVING A SOFT CATCH
186
CHAPTER 9
191
Strategies for Success
192
ANATOMY OF AN ONSIGHT
193
SENDING SIGHTUNSEEN
195
FLASHING
199
THE ELEMENTS OF STYLE
200
CHAPTER 10
203
Techniques for Sending
204
ALWAYS LEARN AND MAKE PROGRESS
205
BREAK IT DOWN
206
TECHNIQUE
207
GOING IN DIRECT
208
MAKING LINKS
209
WORK THE RESTS
211
HIGHS AND LOWS
212
THE ONE HANG
218
WARMING UP FOR THE REDPOINT
219
MORE TIPS FOR REDPOINTING SUCCESS
220
CHAPTER 11
223
A Day at the Crags
224
WARMUPS
225
WHAT KIND OF DAY IS IT GOING TO BE?
226
WARMING DOWN
227
HOW TO CHOOSE A PROJECT
228
MOTIVATION
229
CRAG ETHICS
230
The Best SportClimbing Areas and Crags
234
INTERNATIONAL FLAVOR
240
Glossary
244
Rating Comparison Chart for Sport Climbing
248
Index
249
Copyright

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Informazioni sull'autore (2009)

Andrew Bisharat is a senior editor of Rock and Ice and well known for his popular column, "Tuesday Night Bouldering." A climber for more than ten years, Bisharat has made alpine-style ascents of technical peaks worldwide. He lives in Carbondale, Colorado.

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