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rected from old trunks and boxes, and bleach- with pink, blue, or pale green lawn or chamed or used in the pretty creamy-yellow shade bray, it is lovely. that age has imparted to it. In combination Irish crochet lace, too, is used, and, in fact, almost any good lace may be put to a decorative use on summer frocks. A bit of good old lace in sleeves or as a turn-over or standing unlined collar gives a touch of richness to the simplest gown. The puffs and little frills that are such a notable feature of the summer styles as represented are very well for women who can wear such adornments without loss of line and dignity; but more than ever this year women who would be well gowned must bear in mind their own good and bad points of figure, and choose their models accordingly. A sloping shoulder effect, which one has already deplored this spring on many a figure to which nature has already given too much

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o 3 of the drooping line, is essentially - o bad when worn by the wrong woman, o while on some women it is really

graceful and becoming. Even slight defects of figure must be corrected by the lines of cut and trimming in a gown. And while the so-called 1830 effects are undoubtedly the leading models of the season, they are not exclusively the fashion to be followed. There are many good designs with vertical tucks and pleats, and close-fitting skirts of cloth and linen are as often seen on well-dressed women now as the full, flounced, and furbelowed revival of two generations ago. In thin gowns one must of course follow the style of shirring and flouncing and lace trimming, but even among such designs one may choose one's models with regard to the figure. For instance, while a slight woman may wear such a gown as the one here illustrated with puffs and lace and very large, full sleeves, the short, stout woman must

- o so o o, omit the upper puff, carry the plain panels between the groups of shirring to the lower - part of the skirt, and, perhaps, trim each of

of lace insertion to gain an effect of vertical lines. If she is large around the hips and

o. these panels with a band of ribbon or a row

- – generally too plump, the sleeves should be ==o-os--- modified and made more simple. Almost +Rio every model is susceptible of some such al

teration to suit the figure without real loss

Gown of gray silk voile trimmed with guipure lace and narrow of its artistic value. black velvet ribbon bands outlining the puffs. . As to materials, for the thin gowns there are some exquisite designs in printed nets, that there is really no one style that is sucrêpes, panne satins, and organdies. The preme. Perhaps the highest note of artistic nets particularly are charmingly cool-looking, beauty is achieved in the picture-hats with


They may be made over white or
a color, and are even daintier
than the finest organdie, and as
the finish is so soft they are es-
pecially good for clinging styles
of gowns.
A pretty effect on one of these
net gowns is a trimming put on the
skirt in deep points. This trim-
ming is of white net gathered over
a band of ribbon and edged on each
side with a frill of narrow white
lace. Two rows of the points
adorn the skirt.
There is no more useful gown in
the whole list of possibilities than
the ever-new though familiar black
net made in such fashion as to be
used in various ways. Such a
gown may have two linings—in
fact, five or six if preferred. Over
black it is always dignified and ap-
propriate, and over white it is strik-
ingly effective. It may have high
and low linings, and colors as well
as black and white.
At the summer watering-places
there will be seen, no doubt, many
charming evening wraps. The
days when a woman might drape a
silk shawl about her shoulders when
she needed some protection from
the breezes are a thing of the past.
Now, if she would be in fashion
she must have a loose cloak or coat
of broadcloth, pongee or other silk,
with lace and embroidery galore.
These are in many colors, but white
of course predominates for sum-
mer, and the white pongee with
linen lace makes a beautiful gar-
Parasols are brilliant in hue,
even the most vivid grass green
being again in favor. There are
stripes and figures and plain bor-
ders of contrasting color which are
effective for simple parasols, while
for use with elaborate gowns there
are daintier and more decorative

As to hats, as the season moves

Shirt-waist gown of blue taffeta or louisine, with pleatings and black velvet

on one is more and more convinced ribbons put on in an effective design


SUMMER Gown of blue or pink lawn, with white all-over embroidery, and stitched bands of lawn.

long, graceful ostrich plumes. These are some of them very long, one feather extending almost entirely around the hat and drooping over the hair at the back. The old fashion of shaded feathers is in favor, and the most exquisitely delicate tints show in these feathers.

But that every woman who would be considered well dressed must have separate and distinct hats for various occasions is as fixed as the laws of the Medes and Persians. For morning, for travelling and shopping, a severe hat with nothing frivolous about its rich smartness is the only correct style. These are called by many milliners shirt-waist-suit hats, and while as rich in materials and make as are many of the so-called shirt-waist suits

of the present season, they are always made after the simple models. The sailor hat of this season is not a thing of beauty. It does not, in fact, seem to have kept its hold on public favor. It is big and broad and flat, and the crown also is flat and very large in circumference. There is a false rim inside which fits the head, but the appearance of a small, apparently shrunken head showing under one of these flat hats is far from pleasing. Among the fads of extreme fashion are very elaborate stockings. Embroidery and openwork are combined in most striking effects, colored embroidery being used on black silk and lisle thread. The designs are worked in

Evening Gown of pale yellow mousseline, white guipure d'Irelande and little ruffles of inch-wide black velvet ribbon.


New model of gray canvas with flecks of blue and mauve silk; braiding in narrow green and blue silk braid, the vest and lower cuffs being of white taffeta

vivid colors, and panels of flowers alternate with linens of open-work. The fine silk hosiery is exquisite, with lace medallions let in over the instep. Beautiful jewelled sets of studs and belt clasps are used on the pretty shirt-waist suits, and these alone, without other trimming, will be sufficient, often, to make a gown uniquely handsome. Opals are perhaps the most favored jewels, but turquoises in a greenish shade and a greener stone set in dull gold are extremely effective. Wide full belts of soft silk or kid are the most popular, as they give the deep bodice effect even to shirt-waists. The fact that the deep blouse front has quite gone out of fashion cannot be emphasized too strongly. There vol. xxxviii.-44.

is a blouse, of course, but the long flat pouch at the front is no longer considered smart. Belts are embroidered in silks and tinsel, studded with jewels, and made of tinsel ribbons. Most belts are deeper at the front than at the sides and back, coming down to a long point and finished with a handsome clasp o buckle. As to stocks, there are as many styles as ever, but for wear with the plain shirt-waist the best is a piqué standing collar with tie of madras or other light-weight material. This may be tied in a bow or simply knotted once and fastened with a scarf – pin. For thin

waists the stocks with insertions of lace, embroidery, and faggoting are smart.

GARDEN-PARTY Gown of pale gray silk gauze over white; black velvet edges; ruffles and yoke of Alençon lace; bertha of saffrontinted old embroidery.


Short Gown of white linen, duck, or piqué; bands of the same with rows of

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UTDOOR amusements of all kinds are so much a part of summer life nowadays that it is necessary to devote considerable time and attention to what shall be worn for the different sports, such as tennis, golf, automobiling, riding, bathing, etc. At first it is a trifle discouraging, if the allowance for dress is not absolutely unlimited, to contemplate the additional cost that seems requisite to provide a separate costume for each and every one of these amusements, but with the exception of bathing and riding costumes, it is not necessary to have an individual outfit for each and every one of the other outdoor amusements. Bathing dresses become more and more fanciful every year, and it must be confessed that they are considerably more attractive than they were in the days when everybody wore just the same style and often the same size, regardless of the individual. The old-fashioned long-trousered and short-bloused bathing suit of flannel—gray or blue — trimmed with coarse braid, has quite gone out of date, and in its place there are almost as many different styles and materials to choose from as for the street and house costume. Mohair and taffeta silk are the favorite materials for bathing suits. Flannel and serge have almost gone out of date, although there are some conservative people who think that serge is the best material, after all, provided it is of the wiry kind that does not get too heavy nor hold the water too long. However, the silk bathing suit comes first in the list, and then the mo– hair. The favorite design has a

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