charming style of its own. The vest is one straight strip of the same material as the dress or a contrasting color tucked across by hand or by machine, preferably the latter. Each side of this vest is finished with a narrow bias band stitched in place and decorated with fancy buttons.

The left side of the back of the blouse has a broad box pleat. Under this is a flap for the buttonholes, and the buttons are on the hem of the right side. The sleeves have six little tucks in each at the elbow to give a pretty fulness at the back. The skirt is cut on a curve and slightly gathered into the belt. In some materials it will be necessary to have a seam at the front. This centre seam is

CLOAK FOR RECEPTIONS OR EVENINGS.-NO. 79.
Size, 36 inches bust measure only. Price, 25 cents.
See Diagram Group II., Pattern-sheet Supplement.

tern should be laid with the centre front line on a fold of the material-embroidery or tucking-and the back yoke should be cut in the same way, or, more economically, it may have a seam at the middle of the back.

The gown may be put into the yoke with pleats or gathers, as preferred, or a series of tiny tucks may be made across the front. When the yoke has been basted into place the material under the point should be cut away to leave the yoke unlined. The gown slips on over the head like a chemise. The finish of the sleeves may be a lace ruffle or one of embroidery instead of the lawn one illustrated.

Little Girl's Morning Frock

LINEN, flannel, cashmere, or serge is al

propriate material for making the little frock for a girl of five years given in Diagram Group IV. A simple blouse with tucked vest and fastening under a box pleat at the back is easy enough for the most inexperienced mother to cut and make, and yet has a

NEW RAIN COAT.-NO. 79. Size, 36 inches bust measure only. Price, 25 cents. See Diagram Group II., Pattern-sheet Supplement.

much in vogue now for women's and children's skirts. Of 42-inch material 3 yards will be needed, or 4 yards of yard-wide material.

Small Boy's Autumn Overcoat

THE little boy's overcoat given on the pat

tern supplement this month is a very smart model which is suitable for winter or summer. It may be copied in piqué as well as in broadcloth or cheviot. For the last, the cloth being 52 inches wide, 1 5-8 yards will be needed. Of piqué 27 inches wide 3 5-8 yards will cut the coat.

The coat opens under the tuck at the right side of the front, consequently the left side is cut much wider than the right. From the shoulder seam to the hem on the left side runs a tuck, notches showing the place and the depth of this tuck. The right front is to be finished with a plain hem, and the righthand edge of the left side should have a facing an inch and a half deep stitched on, or in cutting that much more width may be allowed and a hem be made here. The coat buttons through just inside this hem. The back is made in three parts; the broad centre piece should be turned in at each side and stitched over on the side forms. The collar may be the usual simple curved standing

collar used on all these Russian coats, or the coat may have also an outer turn-down collar. If this is desired it may be cut by the collar pattern provided, cutting it a little larger all around.

THE

Girl's Party Dress

HE question of a girl's party or dancingschool dress is not always an easy one to solve. In summer white muslins are always appropriate and and comfortable, but many mothers prefer colored dresses for winter. The style with guimpe of white washable material is much more girlish-looking than a plain high-neck frock, and is particularly practical.

The skirt is cut in five gores and is fitted around the waist by slight gathering only. In each side of the outer waist there are four tucks, two coming from below the yoke and two from the shoulder seam. To cut the dress will take 334 yards of 42-inch material. The guimpe will require a half-yard of all-over and 34 yard of nainsook for sleeves.

Ο

NE of the strong books of the Harper output this year is Dr. Emil Reich's Success Among Nations-a powerful study of three questions in which the average man's chief interest in history centres. They are: Which were the successful nations? What were the causes of their success? What nations are likely to be successful nations in the future? All of these questions Dr. Reich answers authoritatively and entertainingly. His book should have a wide circulation and very thoughtful reading.

Harper & Brothers have published, among their summer output, The Poems of a Child - Julia Cooley, with an introduction by Richard Le Gallienne. Mr. Le Gallienne discovered the youthful poetess, and his enthusiasm is apparently due as much to that fact as to her genius. Judging by her poems, she is a remarkable child, who has written some really charming verse. Moreover, she has, without suggestion or assistance from any one, made for herself a small rhyming dictionary, one page of which Mr. Le Gallienne quotes. She has also a marvellous collection of note-books containing a record of work completed and to come. Mr. Le Gallienne's delightful introduction is followed by a collection of Julia's poems, all of which are unique and many of which are hauntingly good.

It is seldom that a novelist forsakes one field for another, especially if he has been fortunate in finding himself and his public in a chosen line of fiction. To happen upon fresh material and to treat it with novelty of method that brings to the author a great success is an achievement rare enough to be sought in one lifetime, and, once secured, to be sufficiently grateful for. Yet we find that Mr. Irving Bacheller, not content with the laurels won by Eben Holden and Dri and I, has dared to invite success in a form of fiction. whose subject will surprise the multitude of his readers. That Mr. Bacheller should write a tale of the coming of Christ, as he has done in Vergilius, just published, is as startling as if we had been told that General Lew Wallace had written Eben Holden. And the astonishing part of it is that he looks to gain as wide a popularity by this new venture in classic fiction as he did with his pastoral novels of modern life. He has hit upon a subject that is fresh in fiction. We have had forerunners and followers of Ben Hur, with their scenes laid in the times of Christ, but no signal success has ever appeared celebrating the momentous years that preceded the Nativity and leading up to that pivotal event in history as a climax. Händel accomplished this artistic feat in his masterpiece of oratorio, The Messiah, and Milton struck the immediate note of prophetic expectation and fulfilment in his "Hymn of the Nativity." But it has been left to Mr. Irving Bacheller to

realize this profound and moving theme in the great world drama in a work of fiction. As in Ben Hur, the clashing elements are drawn from Roman and Jewish conditions, and the scenes and characters alternate between Rome and Jerusalem. It is not a religious novel in the sacerdotal sense, though the motive at play is the stirring in the minds and hearts of men and women of that nobler, purer conception of the great love which saw its incarnation and fresh expulsive force in the coming of Christ. The Emperor Augustus and Herod the Great move in the pages of Vergilius, actuating the drama, and throwing their strong and contrasting figures, like gigantic shadows, across the plan of the story as they did in history. The story opens in Rome, and discloses with winning touches the noble love of Vergilius, a young Roman tribune, for Arria, a beautiful Roman maiden of the patriciate. Their troth is seemingly favored by the Emperor, and then rudely interrupted by the imperial edict which severs the lovers and sends Vergilius on a dangerous mission to the court of Herod in Judea. A sinister shadow threatens the happiness of the lovers in Antipater's passion for Arria and his hatred of Vergilius. The friendship of David and Vergilius, and the self- abnegating devotion of David's sister, Cyran, a slave girl, for the young Roman tribune, lend a beautiful and tragic pathos to the tale. Without being a Christmas story, Vergilius, being a tale of the first Christmas, is bound to take a prominent place among the holiday books, and the intrinsic human interest and novelty of the book itself are sure to put it far in the lead among the novels of the season.

Another strong book of the year is Nicholas Payne Gilman's Methods of Industrial Peace, published by Houghton, Mifflin, & Co. Professor Gilman is a noted authority on the subject he has chosen, and his book includes chapters on The Combination of Employers and Employees, The Incorporation of Trade-Unions, Industrial War, Trade Arbitration, etc. The tone is impartial and the treatment admirably concrete.

Under the title, Florentine Letters, Grace Hanford Frisby has brought out a pleasant book, through Ryders', which will appeal especially to tourists contemplating a journey to Italy.

The Singular Miss Smith, published by the Macmillan Company, has won a strong popularity, due in part to cleverness in the telling and in part to the fact that it turns on the servant question. The Singular Miss Smith is a great heiress who works for some months as a servant in various homes to discover for herself, by practical experience, the servant's side of the great American problem. The book does not throw any special light on the solution of this, but it makes interesting reading. The author is F. N. Kingsley.