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THE FASHION OUT LOOK FOR 1905

BY A. T. ASHMORE

HE fashion outlook for autumn
and winter was never so bewil-
deringly complex as at the present
moment. Never were there so
many absolutely diverse styles to
- choose from, each and every one
bearing the hall-mark of the very latest design,
and also being indescribably “smart.”
Crinoline is more than hinted at, for there are
underskirts made to wear with street and house
gowns that have two and three pieces of feather-
bone inserted in tucks or cordings, so that the
skirt stands out almost as did the crinoline skirts
of the olden time. In truth, some aid is neces-
sary to hold out such width of skirt as is re-
quired in the fashionable gown intended for late
autumn or early winter wear.
Cloth costumes will be extremely fashionable,
so also will velvet and velveteen costumes, while
among the new materials are many so-called vel-
vets and velveteens that bear the strongest possi-
ble resemblance to plush—but with rather a
shorter nap than was fashionable when plush was
last in favor. Silk, satin, brocade, all are in
demand for evening gowns, and also there are
gauzes, nets, laces, and tulles that suggest ball
gowns when seen first in the material itself.
Many of the fabrics are quite too handsome
and elaborate in design to require much trim-
ming; but in these days trimming plays such
an important part in dress that apparently it
is impossible to in any way get along without
it, so the pattern of the brocade is outlined in
embroidery stitch or with paillettes of gold, sil-
ver, jet, or steel. Gowns of striped gauze elabo-
rately trimmed with lace medallions are made
Copyright, 1904, by Harps R & Brothers. All Rights Reserved.

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Smart evening gown: Directoire coat of white silk with green satin stripe, edged with a band of white satin; cuffs and collar of white with colored embroidery, green velvet belt.

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more ornate by embroidery on the lace itself. Straps of black velvet ribbon on taffeta and cloth gowns are caught down at intervals by most exquisite embroidery done in

Very large soft white Felt Hat, edged with black velvet; long black paradise feather and pink roses in black tulle softly draped around the high crown.

silk in a design of small flowers or of one large flower. And so it goes on indefinitely until it seems scarcely possible to find place for so much and such elaborate work.

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Coat of tobacco-brown cloth with brown velvet revers and cuffs and a narrow pale yellow brocade vest; new-style sleeves, with full tops pleated into the shoulder.

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All materials may be included in the choice of winter gowns. For the street both rough and smooth cloths will be fashionable, as well as the velvets already referred to. In the home not only will silks and satins be worn, but many new varieties of voile, chiffon cloth, and the same light-weight fabrics as were used this last summer, and even batiste and chiffon will find a place in theatre and house gowns.

With so many different styles of gowns as are now considered reqi uisite, the color question has a wide field, and not for many a season have there been so many different colors displayed. Clothes this winter are bound to be more or less conspicuous, either from the vivid color, or, if some dark color be chosen, from the contrast in the trimmings employed, or, smartest of all, from the exquisite braiding or embroidery that is so exceedingly popular. An entire costume in a light shade of yellowish brown is further lightened by touches of orange, and so on indefinitely throughout the whole gamut of color.

Yellow, orange, red, and a pastel blue are the favorite colors used in trimming, and what may be termed modified shades of these same colors will be seen in cloth, velvet, and velveteen. Mole color or stone

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gray, an exquisite shade of prune, a new red, an odd brown, are the colors for the moment chosen for entire costumes. Black

or white and black and white will be extremely popular for house as well as street gowns, but, as a rule, will be made up in most elaborate designs that have a totally different

Back of Reception down; café-au-lait taffeta, with fichu and frills of Alençon lace; buttons of black velvet embroidered in gold, and down either side of the front an inch-wide black velvet ribbon run through a band of embroidered €crulinen.

effect from anything seen for some time. An extremely dark blue, generally becoming, is also to be fashionable, but will not be worn all winter, so it is said.

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