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OR the moment the picturesque reigns supreme in the fashions for evening gowns, and most quaint and old-fashioned are many of the newest designs. More than ever is the hint of crinoline apparent, but fortunately the desired effect of wide - spreading skirts can be obtained

LACE EVENING COAT; white taffeta revers edged with black satin; black satin belt and sleeve-bands; to be worn with white or black skirt only.

by the use of featherbone without using any crinoline, and a good dressmaker can even cut a skirt so it will "stand out" without even the featherbone.

There are two kinds of skirts fashionable in the ball gownsthe round short skirt and the long close fitting one trimmed either with long lines of tucks or embroidery or with gathers or pleats at the sides, or trimmed with lace flounces. Cordings, shirrings, and puffings such as were years ago so popular on evening gowns are seen again this season. The old-fashioned round low-neck waist instead of the square, falling off the shoulder, the pointed, stiffly draped waist and the flounces caught up with stiff bunches of flowers, were all favorite styles "before the war," and have now reappeared with slight modification.

Flowered silks and brocades in odd dull shades and fanciful designs are most fashionable, but then, too, the plain silks and satins find many admirers, while tulle, net, and gauze, plain and embroidered, are in great demand. The straight-front effect is still to be seen, but it is more fashionable now to have a small waist than it was last year, and although the latest cut of waist is long in front, finished with a sharp-pointed effect, there are soft draped

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SIMPLE EVENING COAT of white cloth trimmed with wide silk braid; part of the yoke is covered

with rows of narrow braid, and the other part is covered with guipure.

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the evening cloak will be a mat-
ter of serious import. Oftentimes the
most charming of evening gowns will
look shabby and out of date if worn
under an old-fashioned and unbecom-
ing opera cloak. In these
days when so much attention
is paid to all the details of
dress, it is worth while to con-
sider pretty closely the ques-
tion of what color and material
and style of garment are most
becoming.

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EVENING GOWN of pale rose satin messaline with sleeve drapery and ruffles of the same shade of mousseline de soie; heavy cream guipure; bodice drawn into a long slender buckle.

Light wraps and dark ones are both to be fashionable. From the economical point of view brocade, in black satin or velvet, makes one of the most desirable garments that a woman can have. It may be made extremely effective by having the collar and cuffs of fur, by jabots of lace, or by the ornaments of jet and passementerie that are so much in demand at the present moment.

Fitted wraps are never very satisfactory, but this season there are to be more of themthat is, made half-fitting in the back and with the fronts left loose. No evening wrap should be, in any sense of the word, tight, for it must be worn over a light gown, and too heavy or tight-fitting an outer garment crushes and ruins any light fabric over which it is

worn.

The design that has a carefully fitted yoke over the shoulders, and the material below laid in wide full pleats, is a most satisfactory one. At the same time, the design that is made like a coat, half

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