SOLD ALSO BY AMYOT, RUE DE LA PAIX; TRUCHY, BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS RUE NEUVE-SAINT-AUGUSTIN; AND BY ALL THE PRINCIPAL BOOKSELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. A CLASSICAL TOUR THROUGH ITALY. CHAPTER I. Bay and Castle of Procida-Evening Hymn-Beautiful View, Observations-the Island of Vivara-Ischia, its Mountains, Eruptions, Appearance, and Population-Nisida-Vesuvius. As we passed the bay of Misenus we observed the fine appearance of that promontory; it is separated by the harbour, and by Mare morto (the dead sea) with the flat shore beyond, from the neck of land which it terminates, and thus it forms an insulated eminence, remarkable for its shape, its boldness, and its aerial elevation. After having doubled the cape, we crossed the strait which flows between it and the island of Procida. Here I landed, while my companions pursued their course to the island of Ischia, about four miles further. Procida is about two miles from the continent: its shore, towards the west, is comparatively low, but it swells gradually towards the east, and terminates in a bold promontory, the summit of which is crowned with the castle or royal palace. The prominence of this point on one side, and the Punta del Vomere (plough-share point) about a mile from it to the south, form a little bay. The promontory is sufficiently lofty to entitle the island, of which it is the most conspicuous feature, to the epithet alta' (lofty), which Virgil gives it, as the rocks which line its eastern and southern coast justify the word aspera (craggy) employed by Statius'. Besides the harbour which I have described, there are on the same coast several creeks, which afford shelter to fishing boats and small vessels, and contribute much to the variety and the romantic beauty that eminently characterize this and the neighbouring shores and islands. There is no regular inn, I believe, in the town, but strangers are received and very well treated in the castle. This edifice is large and very roomy, though almost unfinished; it has a small garden to the west and north, surrounded by a wall that borders the brow of the precipice. A trellice supporting thick spreading vines covers this wall, and shades the walk along it, while large windows open at intervals, and enable the eye to range over the view that lies expanded beneath. At one of these windows I seated myself, and enjoyed the glorious exhibition of the setting sun, which then hung in appearance over the distant island of Pandataria, and cast a purple gleam on all the promontories of Gaieta, and the hills of Formia. The purple tints, as the sun descended into the waves, brightened into golden streaks, then softened into purple again, and gradually deepening into blue, at length melted away in darkness. The moon rose soon after; a table was placed before me covered with figs, apricots, and peaches. The man and the woman who took care of the palace, a young couple, the husband strong and comely, the wife handsome, seated themselves opposite to me; their son, a smart lively boy, served at table. After a little conversation, the man took his guitar and accompanied his wife while she sung the evening hymn, in a sweet voice and with great earnestness. Occasionally the man and boy joined in chorus, and while they sung, the eyes of all three were sometimes raised to heaven and sometimes fixed on each other, with a mixed expression of piety, affection, and gratitude. I own, I never was present at an act of family devotion more simple or more graceful. It seemed to harmonize with the beauty of the country, and the temperature of the air, and breathed at once the innocence and the joy of Paradise. Shortly after similar little concerts rose from the town below, and from different parts of the island, and continued at intervals for an hour or more, sometimes swelling upon the ear, and sometimes dying away in distance, and mingling with the murmurs of the sea. One would almost imagine that Milton, who had visited all this coast, had these concerts in mind when he speaks of Celestial voices to the midnight air Par. Lost, book iv. 682. Next morning I was awakened earlier than usual by the rays of the sun shining full into my room, and getting up, I placed myself in the balcony to enjoy the air and the prospect. Misenus and |