levers and handles are within easy reach and one man can run the combination as easily as he could any one of the three machines forming it. The shear is built with stationary or list-saving rest as desired. It is manufactured by the Parks & Woolson Machine Co., of Springfield, Vt., and the cost of it is such that mills manufacturing certain classes of goods cannot afford to be without it. The manufacturers will gladly send cuts and full particulars to all inquirers, whether they contemplate purchasing or not.

THE COTTON FACTORY.

METALLIC ROLLS FOR RAILWAY DOUBLERS. Editor FIBRE AND FABRIC,- Drafting railway heads is of considerable moment, as this is the starting point where cotton fibres receive their first parallelism. In drafting a railway head, or, as some carders term it, railway doublers, very much depends upon the body of cotton coming up to the back rolls as to what the draft ought to be in order to deliver the standard weight of railway drawing. Let us suppose, for instance, that a railway head is connected with a section of ten cards. The average weight of sliver from these cards is eighty grains per yard. Thus we ascertain that 800 grains of cotton fibres per yard are passing up to the back rolls of railway treads. Now this is to be drafted into railway drawing to meet the wants of the processes at drawing and slubbing. We will suppose that the carder requires the front roll of railway head to deliver drawing to weigh 135 grains per yard. Now what would he have to put in for draft, with a grist of 800 grains at the back roll, to secure the required weight of drawing? It may be of general interest to know what the constant gears are as well as draft gears. In this case the driver and driven will be presented for three different draftings. Drivers 49, 32, 37, 27, 9; driven, 24, 72, 29, 60, 20; draft, 4, 28, 100. We find in this example on a certain make of railway head all of the constant gears for a draft of 4, 28, 100. This, as will be seen, requires a draft gear of 24 teeth. Now, suppose we draft the head for 5, 04, 100; in this case the same constant gears are used except the draft gear, which in this case would be 28 teeth instead of 24, as in the previous example. We now come to the problem of drafting a railway head for a grist of 800 grains. Estimating the weight of railway drawing at 135 grains per yard, we find that it requires a draft of 5, 85, 100. This would require a draft gear of 33 teeth. Having discussed the first point of interest in drafting a railway head, I will now take up the second proposition and see what relation exists between the front and back rolls, or, in other words, how shall we discriminate in the distribution of the draft from fourth to third and from third to second roll. There are various theories in regard to this point. One superintendent said to the writer, "I want considerable draft between back and middle rolls and from third to second roll." 66 This," he said, was for the purpose of breaking up the body of cotton and thus relieving the front roll in the process of drafting." Another superintendent or carder calls for a light draft at the back and middle rolls. As this is a subject of more than usual interest, the writer will explain to some extent what is meant by an excessive or light draft. We find that railway heads are drafted all the way from four up to six. Now the point for manufacturers to decide is this: What proportion of this draft ought to be applied to back and middle rolls? I find in looking up the points bearing on this question that some heads are geared for a light draft while others are running with a heavy draft at back and middle rolls. In one instance the heads were geared as follows: Third and fourth rolls, 22, 30; on second and fourth rolls, 25, 72. We ascertain from this formula that third and fourth rolls have a draft of 36, 100, and that between second and fourth rolls there was a draft of 1, 88, 100; total draft, 224. We find, then, that if a railway head was running with a draft of five, the draft between the second roll and callender rolls would be 2, 76, 100. In another instance the third and fourth roll was 25, 30, with draft of 20, 100, while on the second and fourth rolls it was 25-62, with draft of 1, 48, 100; total draft, 1, 68, 100. Again I find third and fourth rolls geared 25 and 30 with draft of 20, 100; second and fourth rolls, 25, 50, draft, 100; total, 1, 20, 100. Since manufacturers have been putting in the metallic rolls to take the place of the shell rolls, considerable attention has been given to the correct theory of drafting back rolls. On account of the top

66

and bottom rolls interlocking, there is an unknown quantity of draft, say not far from nine per cent; but very little draft is required and very much less weight to hold the rolls in position as compared with the shell roll system. With my experience in drafting railway heads, I am of the opinion that all the draft required at back rolls is just sufficient to straighten and hold the grist of cotton so that when it comes to the front rolls it can be drawn even and uniform. If too strong a draft is applied to back rolls, the sliver will appear cloudy when drawn out. This is evidenced from the fact that the body of fibres are separated too much before the action of front roll draws out the fibres. I am aware that quite a good many mill men are not in favor of placing this kind of a roll in their mills. I learned recently of a carder, who is rated as one of the very best, who is all at sea on the practical use of the metallic roll; that one objection raised is the radical change in gears required for dtafting. Then again the point is raised that it is very difficult to adjust the weight necessary to hold the rolls and not have them cut the fibres. Now, on inquiry, I find that there are nearly 200,000 deliveries of the metallic rolls North and South, and a very large per cent of them are used on railway heads and drawing frames, and wherever any machine has been adjusted to the wants of the metallic rolls so far as drafting and weighing are concerned, they are giving entire satisfaction. Of course this roll is not placed for the purpose of making good carding or evening up excessive unevenness of numbers. No carder need expect to get good even railway slivers with smooth selvages unless his picking and cards are in prime conditlon. The reason why the draft gears are changed is from the fact that the metallic roll system gives a positive draft. It is a well known fact that all shell rolls are driven by friction; that is to say, the power to drive them comes from the bottom rolls, and the immediate result of this is a constant slipping, and especially is this the case when the atmosphere and relative humidity changes. Cotton fibres never draw so evenly when dry or damp, consequently the shell rolls are never driven with a positive speed, and the result is an uneven draft. Now with the metallic roll system each roll is carefully adjusted and geared so that a positive speed and draft is secured. Just to show what the change in gears is, I will give two points for information. An agent in Pennsylvania in adjusting his railway heads geared and weighted as follows: Front roll from 29 to 33; callender roll from 49 to 45; second roll from 25 to 33; third roll from 22 to 30, and at the same time reduced the weight on rolls 60 per cent and started the heads very nicely. The second instance is where the writer changed a large mill from the shell roll system to that of the metallic roll with change of gears as follows: Front roll from 28 to 32; callender from 49 to 44 ; on second roll from 25 to 32, and on third roll from 22 to 30, while the amount of weight was reduced 50 per cent. In the meantime I changed the bevel gears on doffer shaft from 18 to 20. This change relieves all undue strain on the grist as it passes up to the back rolls. An even selvage enhances the value of the yarn spun from the fact that the drawing and roving is in uniform condition while being manipulated through the several processes. Now a word about the change of gears at callender rolls. In the first place I put on a 45; with this gear there was a slight tendency to run slack from front to callender roll. This was changed to a 44 gear when the sliver ran smooth. This, as will be observed, resulted in a change of five teeth or ten per cent. This proves conclusively that the metallic rolls deliver with a positive draft, and in order for the callender rolls to take care of the sliver they have to run from 8 to 10 per cent faster. The question of weighting a set of metallic rolls in a railway head is one that must receive careful attention. No two sections can be treated the same from the fact that the body of cotton to be drafted down is not the same. All the weight required is just sufficient to hold the rolls while the fibres pass between the flutes. S.

LOWELL TEXTILE SCHOOL.

The builders of textile machinery have contributed generously to the equipment of the Lowell Textile School. The collection of power looms includes a group of jacquards from the Knowles Loom Works, Providence, R.I, and some handsome carpet looms from the shops of the Crompton-Knowles Loom Works, Worcester, Mass., with plain looms, dobby looms, leno looms, lappet looms and other weaving machinery. In the same room is machinery for preparing and dressing warps for cotton, woolen, worsted and silk fabrics. The cotton spinning room is equipped by the Lowell Machine Shop,

the Mason Machine Works and the Kitson Machine Co. All the machinery is of modern type and is run by electric power. The "woolen " room contains a complete set of machines for the purpose of producing yarn from

cotton manufacturing course; second, the woolen manufacturing; third, the designing, and fourth, the dyeing. These courses overlap to a considerable extent, so that a student in any one branch attains sufficient knowledge of other branches so far as they appertain to his section In the evening school the work is more specialized, students having all the advantages that the day students have in manipulating the machinery and taking the same subjects of study. The Lowell Textile School offers a very advantageous opportunity for

mule,

the raw wool. The pickers, cards, twister, etc., are from the

works of the Davis & Furber Machine Co., of North Andover, Mass., and the Burr picker is from the Atlas Mfg. Co., Newark, N.J. In the chemistry and dyeing sec

tion of the school several thousand dollars have been spent this summer in equipping the

room with all the necessary apparatus. The arrangement of the school is admirable, and

its equipment includes passenger and

freight elevators, electric lights and power produced on the premises, humidifiers, and a complete system of fire protection, and everything that can be considered necessary for the equipment of a school or mill. The instruction is divided into several branches. The principal departments are the day classes for regular students and the evening classes for the people employed in the mills. In the day classes, which are held both morning and afternoon, arrangements are made for the training of students in any one of four courses. First, the

young men of New England to learn the textile business.

Cata

logues giving course of instruction and other information may be had from Director C. P. Brooks, Mass.

The September 1st Egyptian cotton circular of Stoddard, Haserick, Richards & Co., Boston, has the following report from Alexandria, dated August 13: "In the spot market there is only a small business passing at rather irregular prices, a large quantity now being delivered against contracts. More business has been done at rather easier prices. There seems to be a better demand now creeping into the market. The tone of the market during the week has

been easier,

cases to obtain material concessions. The crop prospects continue favorable. The lowest quotation on R.A.P. quality during last season was 9.97 cents. The same cotton is offering today at 9.59 cents."

The Clover, S.C., Cotton Mills Co., which operate 6000 spindles and were started seven years ago, are stated to have declared dividends during that time of ninety per cent; the stockholders realizing 13 per cent on their investment.

In five small halls in one building in this city, rented to labor parties on Labor Day, nineteen half barrels of beer, besides "soft stuff" and "hard stuff" was put in and consumed.

Mr. S. N. D. North, secretary of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, is to be appointed by President McKinley to head the census bureau. A most excellent selection, but who will fill the chair he vacates?

The laborers of this country, or rather this city, have money to burn, and they burn it as though it did not take hard labor to get it. "What fools those mortals be!" The wise laborer looks out for that proverbial rainy day, and places his money where it will grow. He then becomes a capitalist for the beer drinking laborer to rail at.

Richard Croker, who has just returned to New York, is announced as 66 a mayor maker." If Richard Croker makes the Mayor of New York, where do the people come in? The people be consulted, never! The managers of the switch board of this sugar trust republic makes all its officers, and money elects them and the people act as so many marionettes.

A young man is reported as dying of yellow fever at a health resort. That's where people go to empty their pockets and get a jaundiced liver. He who stays at his work has no time to die; certainly not time to go to a health resort and break down his health, spending his nights in a hammock guaranteed to hold two, when he should be in bed getting a proper night's sleep. "We can't put old heads on young shoulders."

If the meaning of what is written is conveyed in the words, the subject is not occult. When a man can read men and things without words, he can then see a meaning back of words not visible to all men. If preachers could understand the bible there could not be two creeds; no, not one. They wrangle over the words and know not the spirit, and that is why there is such a "confusion of tongues" (creeds).

Mr. Alex. P. Mende, of Alex. P. Mende & Co., New York City, is well known among manufacturers, whom he has for many years supplied with fast colors, black dyes, and chemicals for direct dyeing, direct printing and finishing of cotton, woolen, and union goods, jute, flax, silk and leather. Dyers should keep posted as to the latest colors and processes and see that they receive Mr. Mende's circulars, with dyed samples, which are frequently sent out.

Mr. John Shirreffs, formerly designer for the Fitchburg, Mass., Worsted Co., was appointed agent of that company's

Mr. Shirre ffs

mills at a recent meeting of the stockholders. assumed his new position on September 1. He is a worsted designer with an enviable reputation, having previously had charge of designing at the Globe Mills and also at the Washington Mills. He has been employed by the Fitchburg Co. over three years. He is as much respected as a city resident as he is esteemed by his employers for his knowledge and faithful service, and the best wishes and congratulations of his many friends are extended to him at this time.

For a few weeks Mr. J. W. Nagle, representative of the National Association of Manufacturers, will be in Boston, with headquarters at 299 Devonshire Street, and it is stated that his chief purpose here is to select a vice-president for New England. The importance of the work done by this association is well known to the readers of FIBRE AND FABRIC. President Search and those associated with him are entitled to great credit for what has already been done, and the plans outlined for future work are of national interest. For further particulars we would advise the reader to apply to the Association's Bureau of Publicity in Philadelphia for copies of circulars, which are distributed gratuitously.

The first use of the screw is said to have been in the screw jack for raising heavy weights. The principle of the screw propeller was first made known by the experiments of Hooke in 1681, but it was not successfully used as a means of moving vessels until the 19th century. The screw and wedge are referred to by writers of the 16th century, and the true discovery of the use of the inclined plane dates from the latter part of that century. Galileo is usually given credit for the discovery, but Stevinus, a mechanician of Holland, was the first to make a written explanation of this principle of power. It is probable that the uses of the lever, wheel, axle and pulley were understood by the ancients, and it seems that the Egyptians must have utilized the inclined plane principle in the construction of their pyramids. About 236 B.C., Archimedes invented a pumping screw, or spiral-shaped cylinder, for raising water, but in his many writings, showing he was greatly in advance of his age, he makes no mention of the inclined plane.

M. A. Furbush, treasurer of the M. A. Furbush & Son Machine Co., of Philadelphia, was in town the present week. He was born a worker, and there seems to be no limit to his endurance. He is quite a young man, but old in observation. He clearly sees the necessities of our manufacturers, both at home and abroad, and is at this time interesting the National Association of Wool Manufacturers to hold their next meeting in Philadelphia, the headquarters of our textile industries and the home of industrial conventions. Our cotton manufacturers hold their next meeting in Philadelphia, and our wool manufacturers will do well to follow their example. An increased membership will be gained and a greater impetus given to both organizations to strengthen and extend our markets. Mr. Furbush is one of the most active members of the National Association of Manufacturers, with offices in Philadelphia. He also takes a very active interest in textile education generally. Were I a member of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, I would "vote early and often" to hold the next meeting in the city of Philadelphia.

Boston's Labor Day has come and gone, and thank heaven it is passed. The great labor trust was allowed to stagnate the necessary business of the city for that day. Men dare not do work that was absolutely required to be done to make the streets passable. All methods of travel was disorganized, and people could not get from one side of the city to another. The members of the sugar trust who happen to be caught in a

city on Labor Day have just cause to kick and demand that a law be passed to prevent the great labor trust from obstructing travel on the public highways and blockading the streets. The labor trust do not own the streets. Other people have some rights which labor (?) would do well to respect. All are not fools to work hard to get rid of their earnings in a way to annoy others. What a howl would go up if the sugar trust should paralyze travel on our streets! The following was one of the banners carried in the parade: "When monopolies and trusts control they also dictate." How true that statement was! The labor trust monopolized the streets and drove the West End trust's cars to go where they could, dictating to those who desired to use the streets. Of course the Governor and Mayor did review them, for they have but one object, and that is re-election. Vanderbilt was honest; did not fish for gudgeons.

SHRINKAGE OF FULLED GOODS.

Friend Wade,-I notice an article in your issue of the 28th inst., by "Fideliter," on "Shrinkage," in which he asks, "Which is the proper method by which an accurate measure may be obtained of the shrinkage of a piece of fulled goods while at the fulling mill?" I would say the yard measure is the only practical way for all purposes, although the shrinkage of the entire piece may vary from the shrinkage within the yard mark, particularly so if the piece is carelessly woven with light and heavy places. I remember once of an embryo superintendent in a Connecticut mill, who was a very bright and up to snuff on figures, taking a veteran finisher to task on this very question, and wanted the finisher to explain why it was thus. The veteran said, "Well, Johnny, goods cannot always be fulled on figures, and in this case figures will lie." In conclusion, will say the yard mark is the proper way to obtain the shrinkage and will not deceive the experienced finisher to any material extent. -R. J. T. AMERICA'S FIRST COTTON MILL WAS IN NORTH BEVERLY. The tablet which is to mark the site of the first cotton mill in America was put in place August 26, 1897, at the corner of Dodge and Cabot streets, North Beverly. There were no formal exercises, but among those invited by the Beverly Historical Society to be present was the Hon. R. S. Rantoul of Salem, as the result of whose researches the fact was demonstrated that this was really the first cotton mill in America. It seems that when Mr. Rantoul was mayor of Salem he was invited to Pawtucket, R.I., to attend the celebration of the centennial of the opening of the first cotton mill in America. He did not go, but he began to look up the history of the cotton mills. The result demonstrated beyond doubt that the mill in Beverly antedated that in Pawtucket by some years. The facts are substantiated by no less a person than George Washington, who on his tour through New England made a visit to this mill in 1789, and recorded at length his impressions. This was a year before Slater came to America, and two years before he started his mill in Pawtucket. The Beverly mill was built and running in 1788. The tablet is of slate, suitably inscribed with the dates of the opening of the mill, of the incorporation and of the visit of Washington. Mr. Rantoul, being called upon, spoke briefly of the occasion which had caused the monument to be erected. He said the facts which had been unearthed in support of the claim were every one indisputable. He had heard that a claim was to be made by Philadelphia to have had a cotton mill previous to the one in Beverly. The mill in Beverly was a substantial brick building some 40 feet in length, and it stood until about 1838, when it burned down. Mayor Cressey was present, as were a number of residents in that section of the city.

-Boston Herald.

The Dundee Woolen Co., Passaic, N.J., are running full time on fancy cheviots, fancy cassimeres, piece dyes, etc. Their spring samples have been withdrawn. Mr. William G. Ratcliff, formerly assistant supt. at Stroudsburg, Pa., and assistant supt. and designer at Mechanicsville, Conn., now has full charge of the Dundee mills, and is ably assisted by John A. Pooler, overseer of carding; Harry Knipe, overseer of spinning; Herman F. Spitzner, of weaving; Howard Dudley, of dyeing, and Watson Le Bar, of finishing. George Bartley and J. Glennon, loom fixers, and J. Rose and L. Van Ess, dressers.

The Parks & Woolson Machine Co., Springfield, Vt., have just received an order from the Algonquin Co., Passaic, N.J., for an 86-inch brushing machine.

CONNECTICUTS.

A nation armed with a super-abundance of gold and silver is superior to the one dependent on lead, iron and steel. Ecbatana, the capital of ancient Media, enclosed with seven walls, was not so secure as a city without a wall where all the people are joined in perfect harmony. The safest bulwark of a nation is the unity and equality of its people. Many of the ancient kingdoms fell, owing to the discord created by contending factions. A wise government ought to labor with the view of establishing the harmony of its subjects. The best of harmony can hardly become established upon a series of broken promises. Nothing is so fatal to the existence of anarchy as plenty of work and good wages. Something substantial is preferable to a flimsy crown of laurels and endless boasting. A wise king is always superior to a foolish people. Under the authority of Lycurgus, the people of ancient Sparta were deprived of the gold and silver as money. Lycurgus so debased the money that a small sum of it made quite a load for an ass. He would have done better to have taught the people how to make the best use of their wealth; but the lesson was so hard he possibly despaired of it. Many of the ancients stored up money to be plundered by invaders instead of making use of it in times of peace; but, then, they were heathens. No warrior ever returned from his conquests with more prodigious stores of plundered wealth than Alexander of Macedon. To be possessed of the grace of God and a bag of gold at the same time is the most wonderful of all things. Gold is the greatest temptation to traitors. I would like to have plenty of it. Indigence is the chief factor of anarchy. We are approaching an age when the security of the rich shall depend on the prosperity of the poor; let our wise legislators think of it. Hunger is a good spice for seasoning most kinds of food. The ardent toiler enjoys his coarse morsel more than idlers do the most palatable dishes. If I had taken as much pains to save money as I have to peruse books, I might have been better off. Wisdom, virtue and charity are the only chattels we can carry with us when we quit this sphere. I have often thought that our friends in the unseen world are more grieved at our errors and misfortunes than we are ourselves. When no mortal eye sees us, the eyes of spirit glare Tim Bobbin. upon us.

The Knox Hill Co., Warsaw, Ill., J. W. Wilson, superintendent and manager, are running their woolen mills until 9.45 o'clock evenings, and have orders enough ahead to work on for six months. -X.

PAWTUCKET, R.I.-On Sept. 1 Robert Crossley, manufacturing chemist, died at his home in this city, aged 52 years, after a short illness. He was well known by the manufacturers of the state, and besides his large business with bleaching, dyeing and printing concerns, he was interested in several business enterprises of Pawtucket. Mr. Crossley was born in Halifax, Yorkshire, England. He attended the private schools of his native town and then learned the trade of dyeing and finishing dress goods. He worked at his occupation until 1881, when he came to the United States at the solicitation of W. F. & F. C. Sayles, to take charge of dyeing and finishing at Saylesville. He remained at these works until 1883, when he resigned, and established himself in the manufacture of chemicals in company with Alfred Harrison, under the firm name of A. Harrison & Co. The factory was located on Pine Street, Pawtucket, until 1883, when the works were removed to the present location, Charles Street North Providence. In political matters Mr. Crossley was a Republican, and was a member of the Park Place Congregational Church.

"Fuller's earth looks like a clay, but its qualities are not the same. When thrown into water it immediately absorbs it, but breaks down into a fine pulp without being pasty. It is moderately heavy, compact, but friable, and unctuous to the touch. The name is given to a variety of earths, but, broadly speaking, they contain the same elements, though in widely varied proportions. It is found of various color, ranging, in fact, through the whole gamut of shade, but usually it has a greenish cast. The shade depends mainly on the combination of oxide."