"There is no juvenile publication which, in illustration and reading, is more attractive and mentally healthful for young people than HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE."-Sacramento Record-Union.

HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE,

AN ILLUSTRATED WEEKLY FOR BOYS AND GIRLS.

The number for September 25th contains a charming fairy tale, entitled

THE GIANT WITH THE BABY HEART.

BY HENRIETTA CHRISTIAN WRIGHT.

It is illustrated by three drawings by MISS LYDIA EMMETT.

In "Unele Peter's Trust" the young hero embarks upon a new career, which is to prove the turning-point in his life.

66

Chrystal, Jack, & Co.," the serial story by KIRK MUNROE, waxes in interest as it begins to near completion.

Beside these stories are two others, "Having Her Own Way," by MARY A. BARR, and an anecdote of Prince Bismarck, by DAVID KER.

SUBSCRIPTION PRICE, $200 PER YEAR. A specimen copy of HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE will be sent on application.

lionnaire poor. And the girl who has an adoring father can dispense with fine toilettes, with lovers and flowers, gay parties, and many of the joys of youth; her father is all in all, a stay to lean upon, a companion to take pleasure in, all but a god to look up to. There is no more beautiful thing in SHAKESPEARE's imaginings than the relation of Cordelia to Lear, and there is nothing that he wrote which makes us more uneasy than his own apparent unconsciousness of the worthlessness of the little wretch of a Jessica, whom her father had loved so dearly, who betrayed him and robbed him, and is left to revel it at last with his conquering enemies, unless we stay and consider that SHAKESPEARE was not painting his own emotions or sympathies, but a picture of the times instead. And in the mean time, however it be with SHAKESPEARE, the instinct that should rule parent and child together is told forcibly by others, and the older stories of Jephthah and his daughter, and Agamemnon and Iphigenia, are among the most tender and precious of all legendary lore, and, except in the days of callow goslinghood, affect us much more deeply than all the stories of unhappy lovers that ever were written.

There is something infinitely touching in

BAZAR. the care which a daughter feels of a father

HARPER'S BAZAR.

OCTOBER 13, 1888.

TERMS: 10 CENTS A COPY.-$4 00 A YEAR.

Our next number will contain a PATTERN-SHEET SUPPLEMENT, with a large variety of full-sized patterns, illustrations, and descriptions of the latest fashions, comprising a superb double-page engraving of LADIES' and CHILDREN'S AUTUMN and WINTER WRAPPINGS, DRESSES, and BONNETS; CLOTH COSTUMES; BOYS' SUITS; Slipper Patterns, Embroidery Designs, etc., etc.; with choice literary and artistic attractions.

FATHER AND DAUGHTER.

TH

who relies on her, and in that father's dependence on that care too-the slender little weakling in whom such strength is hoarded, the reed that no gales break. And although all the world loves a lover, yet the majority of that portion of it who are fathers, and who have brought up daughters, will be found to sympathize with the father who hesitates to deliver up his daughter to the first lover who crosses his path, and who does not say to him, "Your money or your life," but "Your daughter and your life!" For of all hard things it seems to the loving father the hardest there is to surrender to another's keeping this child in whom his heart is locked, and to whose rearing he has given so much of himself, not in the least knowing that with whatever strength a daughter may love her husband and be one with him, her father can no more lose his place in her affections than a star can forsake its orbit in the firmameut.

WOMEN AND MEN

A GERMAN AND A FRENCHMAN.

we

we read in Lord Bacon's Essays that in his T seems strange and almost incredible when time the two formidable military powers in Europe were Spain and Turkey. At a period no longer ago than when the founders of this nation left England, those two countries, now feeble, were still at the height of all warlike strength. Yet we have seen within one generation a change only less astonishing than this. When our own nation was called to war in 1861, however those who took up arms might disagree on all other points, they at least agreed in this, that the one nation of the world to which they were to look for supreme military ability-tactics, methods, weapons, daring, success-was France; and when France was briefly and hopelessly laid low by Gerit was in a manner more dramatic and more many,

"When I simply dwell on that one word 'war,' there comes over me a wild horror [effarement], as if men talked to me of sorcery, of the Inquisition, of anything remote, obsolete, abominable, monstrous, contrary to nature." We speak with contempt of cannibals, he says, but if it is atrocious to kill men for food, is it not worse to kill them merely for the sake of killing? Then he gives a brief, strong sketch of a battle, set off by his etchers with a formidable glimpse, on the opposite page, of the field after a victory. Then he quotes Von Moltke's words, and proceeds to comment on them thus: "Soldiers are the scourges of the world. We are all striving against ignorance, against every kind of obstacle, in order to render our miserable existence less severe. Men, philanthropists, scientists, spend their existence in toil, seeking out whatever can aid, bless, and

relieve their brothers. Absorbed in their useful toil, they go on accumulating discoveries, enlarging science, giving to intellect each day some new resources of knowledge, and adding daily to the prosperity, the comfort, and the strength of their native land. War comes, and in six months the generals have annihilated twenty years of labor, patience, and genius. And this is what is called [by Von Moltke] the avoidance of the most hideous materialism."

Then he goes on: "To enter a foreign country; to kill a man who is protecting his own house, and is not, like you, in military uniform; to burn the houses of wretches who have no more food; to destroy or steal all property; to drink wine found in the cellars; to assault helpless women in the streets; to burn an enormous quantity of powder, and leave behind only misery and cholera-this is what is called the avoidance of a hideous materialism!" It must be owned that here the cynical, worldly Roman Catholic Frenchman seems on far higher moral ground than the Von Moltke ought consistently to hate war more laborious, devout Protestant German; and yet than than De Maupassant, for the very reason that he has seen more of it. The time is passed when arguments for peace from the side of humanity could be set aside as merely childish or womanish. It is to the greatest military nation of all history that we owe the terse motto, summing up all personal experience, "Dulce bellum inexpertis"-war is sweet to those who have never tried it. It is the glory of the American nation, not so much that it fought bravely for four years, as that, when fighting was ended, it hastened to disband its armies and exalt the works of peace; even becoming, in the terse words of General F. A.Walker, "an unarmed nation" before the world. Of course it is easier to be an unarmed nation, with a continent almost to ourselves, and a generation of trained soldiers still surviving, than in an aggrieved and beleaguered country like France. But there is surely hope for a nation whose most popular author, and the one who "more than any one else," as Mr. James asserts, "hits from the shoulder," directs his blow against the detestable custom of war. Mr. James thinks Guy de Maupassant wanting in softness, wanting in the moral sense, wanting in all recognition of the reflective part of human nature. No doubt there is much in his writings to make all these charges seem true. But if so, such deficiencies only strengthen the value of the protest which even he is forced to make against the brutal spirit preached from the highest seats in the German Empire. T. W. H.

CHOICE COOKERY.

BY CATHERINE OWEN. NO. XXIX.-MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS. NDER this head I intend to give a few sweets manner

and Turkey. Earlier, Holland and Sweden had been as disastrously eclipsed; and no one can observe the utter absorption, among the highest social circles of Germany, of all other ambition in that of military prowess, without instinctively wondering when the time will come to see Germany follow France, Spain, Turkey, Sweden, and Holland into that wholesome discipline of decadence which sooner or later waits on every nation that loves war too well. Grant that in the present condition of Europe a condition of armed self-protection is inevitable; that only transfers the unnatural condition from a nation to a continent. Grant that an international police is still needed; we do not expect the policemen to monopolize all social honor and dignity, despising all who are not on the force; we do not expect to see the head of the government manifest only the qualities of a good City Marshal, or his children brought up, as is said of the little CrownPrinces of Germany, with miniature forts and soldiers for their only toys.

It is something to remember for France that if she furnished for many years the types of braggadocios and insolence, she furnished also the antidote. The noblest plea for peace I ever heard was from the veteran Victor Hugo in 1878; and if it be said that it is easy for the beaten side to be pacific, it must be remembered that his views on this subject long preceded the Franco-Prussian To each of these two people the love and war. Contrast his noble attitude with the words faith of the other put all the world in an with which a typical German-Von Moltke, who optimistic rosy glow; the world is full of has been called by a Frenchman "a man with noble men to this girl who believes in her a genius for killing" (un massacreur de génie)— father, is full of good women to the man answered the delegates of a peace congress. who finds his young daughter so excellent; "War," he said in substance, "is a holy thing, of and any one who knows the sadness of life divine institution; it is one of the sacred laws of and its outlook to those who take the pessi- the world; it nourishes among men all the high mistic view of life, of human nature and and noble sentiments-honor, disinterestedness, the universe, will appreciate the blessing virtue, courage-and keeps them, in a word, that these two people confer upon each from sinking into the most hideous materialism." And how well and bravely he is answered by a other by their mere existence. A father typical Frenchman, the gayest and most audamay be without many things, without cious of Parisians, Guy de Maupassant! In his money, or rank, or fame, or other of his last graceful, and for a wonder almost inoffenheart's desires, but if he has a daughter sive, little book, Sur l'Eau, the record of a yachtwho satisfies his soul, he has that the wanting trip, he bursts out into indignation after visof which makes some famous and lofty mil-iting the finest of French armed vessels, and says:

they may not always be novel, except in

of serving. A compote of fruit has nothing new about it, yet by the way in which it is served it may simply be "stewed fruit," or it may be a dish fit to find a place even in choice cookery.

In making compotes great care must be taken to preserve the shape and color of the fruits. In order to do this they must be quickly peeled and dipped into strong lemon juice and water, and dropped into syrup in which also a little lemon juice has been squeezed. Pass the blade of the knife over its own marks to obliterate the appearance of peeling. Peaches and apricots may be boiled up without peeling, and (unless they are allowed to get too soft) the skins will be removed easily. It will be observed that hard fruits such as apples are simmered in thin syrup to get tender, while rich soft fruits are dropped into syrup boiled to candy height.

Apple Compote No. 1.-Cut up and boil half a dozen apples in a pint of water. When they are quite soft strain the juice from them without squeezing; put to it half a pound of granulated sugar and the zest of a lemon (the zest is the peel so thin that the knife blade can be seen through it while paring), together with the juice. Let this syrup boil for a minute; skim it. Then pare half a dozen fine cooking apples; core them; let them boil gently in the syrup until quite tender, but not in danger of breaking. Take them up on a perforated skimmer. When cold, put the apples into a compote dish. Boil the juice to a jelly; pour part of it over the apples; dip a plate in cold water, drain it, and then pour out the rest of the jelly into it: it should only cover it about the thickness of thick paper. When stiff, warm the under-side of the plate very slightly, pass a broad thin knife under, and lay the sheet of jelly over the apples in the compote dish.

Compote No. 2.-Prepare the apples as in last recipe, but before the last sheet of jelly is laid over them ornament with rings and leaves of angelica, and any red jelly or preserve cut in thin slices and stamped out with tiny tin cutters in leaves, stars, or fancy shapes (stiff red currant jelly or red quince may be used); decorate thus

each apple; then lay the thin sheet of apple jelly over all.

Compote of Stuffed Apples.-Prepare the apples as in the foregoing recipes, taking care to core them all through without splitting the apple. When the apples are done, fill the centre with orange marmalade or apricot preserve. Boil the syrup down till it will glaze; pour it over the apples when they are ice cold, the syrup also only warm enough to remain liquid. By this means the rich coating will remain over the apples, while if both were warm it would run off.

Compote of Apples or Pears grillé.-If you have any apples or pears left from a compote (or you may, of course, prepare them specially), put them into a frying or sauté pan over a brisk fire; put with them any syrup there may be and a cup of sugar just dissolved in water; boil rapidly down to a pale caramel, rolling the apples with a fork so that they become covered with the caramel. Take great care that the syrup does not burn; remove it from the fire the moment it begins to change color. The apples should now have an even glossy surface; as each is finished put it at once into the compotier. Pour a little curaçoa syrup round just before sending to table.

Compote of Apple Marmalade.-This is not so troublesome to make as it sounds, especially to any one who has made glacé nuts-a very general accomplishment nowadays. Reduce some apple marmalade by leaving it for an hour or two in a double boiler; the water boiling round it will evaporate moisture without danger of burning. Stir occasionally, and when the marmalade is so reduced that it will make a firm paste when cold (try a little in a saucer on ice), color one-half pink with cochineal. Spread half an inch thick on plates slightly oiled; when stiff and cold, cut out the marmalade into squares, ovals, diamonds, leaves, etc., with tin cutters. Boil a pound of sugar with a gill of water to the crack-that is, until a teaspoonful dropped in ice-water will crack between the teeth. Oil a fork and a large dish, and use the fork to drop the pieces of marmalade into the candy; lift them out quickly, and lay them on the dish, which will be better if it is set on ice. When they are cold, dish them in a pyramid, the pink to contrast with the white effectively. Pour a little liqueur-flavored syrup round the base of the fruit.

Compote of Pears (white).-Use any fine-flavored dessert pears. Cut them in halves, core, pare, and trim neatly, and simmer them in syrup (a pound of sugar and juice of half a lemon to a pint of water) till they are tender, yet firm to the touch. Dish the pieces, keeping them close to each other. Lay a thin sheet of apple jelly over them, and the syrup, boiled down till rich and thick, round them.

A Pink Compote is prepared in the same way, the only difference being that a very few drops of cochineal are added to the syrup before the pears go in. Decorate with angelica.

Pears à la Princesse.-Select seven pears of the best quality, without blemish, and of equal size; pare them with great care; stand them close together in a saucepan, with weak acidulated syrup to cover them; simmer slowly till quite tender, but yet firm to the touch; take them up, leaving the syrup to boil down. When cold, cut the stalk end off each pear about an inch deep, or so as to leave about an inch of surface, on which place. a ring of angelica (simply cut angelica crosswise and it forms rings, being tubular); if the rings are flattened, lay them in syrup; when softened, bend them round and lay one on each pear; then, if in season, dip a fine strawberry or stoned red cherry in the hot syrup and lay it on the ring of angelica. Cut strips of angelica and run them through the strawberry down to the pear, both to hold the decoration in place and to represent the stalk; dish them standing; when dished up, pour some syrup, boiled till thick and rich, over the seven pears. When fresh fruit is not in season for decoration, use candied cherries.

Variegated Compote of Pears.-This is a pretty dish. Prepare some pears as in the last recipe, except that the tops are not to be cut off; color half the number a pale pink by adding a few drops of cochineal to the syrup in which they are simmered; dress them alternately, a pink pear and a white one, in the compotier; pour over each the pink and white syrup in which they were cooked, and pour syrup flavored with vanilla round them.

Compote of Oranges.-Divide six oranges in halves; first cut out the centre string of pith, pick all pips out carefully, and with a very sharp knife pare off the peel of the orange down to the naked transparent pulp; in this way you get rid of the whole of the white outside skin. Place the halves as you do them in a bowl; pour over them some hot syrup boiled à lisse, flavored with orange-peel, rubbed with lump sugar, and previously dissolved in the syrup; a very little lemon juice should be added if the oranges are very sweet. Let them steep a few minutes; then remove them; then build the oranges into a pyramid on the compotier, and the last thing before going to table pour the syrup, well boiled and cold, over them.

Chestnut Compote.-Take the largest French or Spanish chestnuts, make slits in the peel, and boil till tender; take off the shell, and press them flat without breaking; lay them in a saucepan ; pour over them thick syrup; put them in the oven, but do not let them boil; when they look quite clear take them up, put them into the compotier, boil the syrup to candy height, squeeze into the compotier the juice of an orange, and pour the candy over the chestnuts.

Chestnut Compote No. 2.-Prepare the nuts as in last recipe; put the yolks of three eggs in a saucepan; stir gradually to them a pint of cream; cook a quarter of a pound of sugar to the crack, with a few dried orange flowers; the minute the candy begins to get yellowish pour it into the cream, stirring constantly, and let it come to boiling point; then strain the cream over the chestnuts.

NEW YORK FASHIONS.

GIRLS' DRESSES.

IMPORTED DESIGNS.

GIRLS' EMPIRE GOWNS.

The Empire gowns are far more girlish, and instead of being made of perishable silks, are more often of fine woollens, with a striped selvage for trimming, or an embroidered edge, or else a gay Persian border. The features of these gowns are high round waists with surplice lapped fronts, full bias sleeves that are sometimes puffed at the armhole, a wide soft sash, and a very full straight skirt. The favorite models have the right side of the front shirred or pleated on the shoulder and lapped to the left of the waist line, while the left shoulder is plain, or else the shoulders are shirred alike and brought down beside a velvet V point at the neck, or, simpler still, the waist is shirred around the neck, and the fulness is thrust under a pointed girdle of velvet which begins wide and high in the under-arm seams and tapers Empire gowns of to a point at the waist line. Empire gowns of blue or of rosewood or gray cashmere have lapped shirred fronts to their high round waist, full bias sleeves shirred at armholes and wrists, and shirring on cords around the hips of the full straight skirts, with broad folded sash of soft black ribbon knotted in front, and black bows on the high collar and on the sleeves. Other cashmere dresses have the entire skirt in accordion pleats, while still others are shirred behind, pleated on the sides, and open on a contrasting front breadth or shirred panel, as a mahogany cashmere skirt on a pink silk front breadth with a ruche at the foot, or a réséda cashmere skirt with the front breadth of white wool widely bordered across the foot with gay Persian figures, palms, birds, etc., on which falls a réséda silk sash; the gorgerette or neck ruche is of white wool on a high full waist, and the bias sleeves are shirred in two puffs at the top (on a light silesia lining), with a ruche on the wrists. French modistes line the skirts of wool dresses with another skirt of white crinoline lawn finished with a fluted balayeuse, and they sometimes add a small pad bustle; but children's dress-makers here make the skirt single, and advise that it be worn over a white muslin petticoat that is flounced across the back from the waist to the foot, the flounces being stiffly starched to give a full effect to the skirt of the dress.

SIMPLER DRESSES.

The simpler designs in favor here are highnecked belted dresses, and the straight English dresses with jacket-waist and skirt for school and every-day use, while for more dressy occasions are low-necked dresses with guimpes. The extremely short waists and very long skirts worn a year ago are abandoned for all except little girls only a year or two years old, and waists are now made of natural length, with skirts falling half-way between the knees and ankles, the latter rule holding good for all skirts until they are gradually lengthened to the ankles for girls in their teens. White muslin yoke slips are worn until the girl is two or three years old, when cashmere becomes the favorite material for winter dresses, and is worn in dark and light colors in pretty smocked gowns and in low dresses with muslin guimpes. For dancing-school and children's parties India silk dresses are chosen in very light colors-oldrose, Nile green, yellow, pale blue, or white-made with smocked waists, or with guimpes and velvet yokes, or with ribbon trimmings, or else the gown is of fine white wool with white cord passementerie bands, or with Persian ribbon borders; or, if the child poses for a portrait, she wears a velvet frock of Veronese red, or of golden brown with some white repped silk added; but tasteful mothers study simplicity for their children, and avoid the thick failles, watered silks, and plushes seen in imported dresses. For wool dresses bright scarlet promises to be a favorite color for very small girls, also the duller copper reds, Gobelin blues, the new green shades, and also French gray, which is brightened by the Veronese red and

blue velvets, cordings, gimps, ribbons, etc. The newest muslin guimpes have round yokes with standing frills of embroidery, but many prefer the lengthwise tucks and bands of insertion; turnedover pleated collars and cuffs are also on new guimpes.

CASHMERE DRESSES WITH GUIMPES.

Colored cashmere dresses for girls from three to five years old have half-low square necks and short puffed sleeves; the round waist is covered with lengthwise pleats that are feather stitched; the skirt is hemmed below and gathered at the top, and has one and a half breadths of the double-width cashmere for the smallest sizes, and two breadths for the largest; these dresses are pretty in bright scarlet, with feather stitching of the same shade, and a bow and ends of gros grain ribbon set on the left of the waist line. Simpler guimpe waists are V shaped in the neck, pointed at the waist in front, and round behind, with elbow sleeves open in V shape on the outer arm; these are prettily made of gray cashmere, corded with navy blue in the arms and around the waist, and trimmed on the neck and sleeves with blue cord gimp; blue ribbon bows on shoulders and on left of waist line; skirt of two breadths hemmed and tucked. A newer waist has watered ribbon an inch wide of contrasting color placed between lengthwise box pleats of the same widths on the entire front and back, as gold brown ribbon on a Gobelin blue pleated waist, or white ribbon on a scarlet waist; bows are then added on the shoulders, and one with ends on the left of the waist line or in the middle of the back. Ribbons are also sewed around the skirt between tucks, and some skirts, instead of a wide hem, have three lapping inch-wide tucks to take the place of the hem, headed by a band of watered ribbon two inches wide, with tucks above it. Such tucks should lap enough to conceal the sewing-machine stitching, or else they should be sewed by hand. Other dress waist fronts are half and half of two materials, the right side being made of cashmere lapping diagonally on velvet of the same shade coming from the left shoulder; a band of ribbon may be set along the folds, or else the cashmere may be, plain (without folds), and have a velvet revers along its diagonal edge, and passementerie of silk cord may be set on this revers. Such frocks are worn by girls until they are ten years old, and are charming in peach-colored cashmeres, in sage, réséda, very gray-blue shades that are almost lead-color, and the Florentine green with brown hues like bronze.

OTHER STYLES.

Trimming from the sides, beginning in the under-arm seams, is also fashionable for these round guimpe waists, and gives suggestions of the Empire gowns; thus a gray cashmere waist for a girl of five years has bias folds an inch wide of cashmere, beginning at the lower edge of the armholes, and pointing to the middle of the front and back, with all the V-shaped space above covered with Veronese red velvet; the short sleeves are velvet, and the skirt of two straight breadths gathered and hemmed. Newer still are cloth dresses with shaded silk embroidery and cording like braiding covering the side pieces from the under-arm seams to the middle of the front and back, while the V space is filled in with the cloth in fine pleats; the skirt is bordered with the embroidery, which may be bought already done, along one selvage of the cloth. For cloth skirts, and also for those of cashmere worn by girls of six years, flat box pleats from two to five in number are on the fronts, while the back is gathered, or on cords, or sometimes deeply shirred.

HIGH-NECKED DRESSES.

The smocked dresses of cashmere or of India silk are the choice for small girls, and are also much worn by those who are larger. The short pointed yoke, with pleats below going into a belt, and a gathered straight full skirt, are the simple one-piece dresses which girls from five to ten or even twelve years of age wear to school; the sleeves may be full or in coat shape; for these dresses plain, plaid, or striped woollens are used in all the dark colors. More dressy gowns have the high round waist of velvet, buttoned behind, with a smocked wool vest-like piece in front, and full sleeves of cashmere (with velvet cuffs) and cashmere skirt; this is made up in sage green cashmere and velvet, with the smocking stitches done in red, and taken only at the throat and the waist line; the high standing collar is of velvet, and for a girl of six years this dress has two and a half breadths of cashmere in the skirt, box-pleated in front and gathered behind. An other high full waist has the cashmere shirred around the neck and at waist line in front and back, and is covered below the arms in front by bias velvet pieces beginning in the side seams and pointing in the middle. More distinctively Empire gowns for girls from ten to fourteen years are of white cashmere or of pale blue, salmon, or pearl gray, shirred below the high standing collar and at the waist line, with a broad India silk sash beginning in the under-arm seams and knotted in front. The bias full sleeves are shirred around in two puffs at the top, and a band of cord passementerie the color of the cashmere covers the high collar, separates the puffs of the sleeves, and covers the cuffs; the skirt of two and a half or three breadths of cashmere is deeply shirred on the hips. Similar dresses are smocked instead of being shirrred, and others have infinitesimally fine tucks run by hand instead of the shirring or smocking. Mothers will find it worth while to learn how to do the smocking, the nice tucking, the drawn-work, and the simple embroidery of vine, feather, and brier stitches, with the tiny dots and scalloped or pointed edges which are now fashionable for trimming children's clothing. Ribbons in many rows between pleats and tucks and in V points down the fronts of gowns are

also much used, and there are borders of wide. Persian ribbons with brocaded rose-buds and gilt threads used in sage green and copper-red shades for trimming white cashmere and salmon and pale blue gowns.

JACKET WAISTS, BLOUSES, ETC.

The jacket waists and kilt skirts now worn by girls of ten to twelve years are in exceedingly simple shapes, the fronts rounded in Zouave shapes or in the square-cornered Eton style, and the back in two forms, each finishing in a square tab. The skirt has double box pleats, usually eight or ten in number, and is sewed to a silesia waist that has the front covered with surah silk laid in four pleats down the middle-two pleats coming from each side-and dropping like a blouse below the waist line. This dress is made up for school use in large plaids of blue with red, and a navy blue surah vest, or of brown and blue striped cloth, with a brown soft wool vest. The bordered wools are also made up for these dresses, sometimes with box-pleated belted waists, or with Eton jacket fronts edged with the border, and with the back box-pleated to a belt. Others have revers of the border down the front, opening over a silk waist tucked at the top and girdled below. The skirts are sometimes gathered on cords all around, or else only in front, and sometimes the cording is behind, with flat pleats in front. Belted blouse-waists of surah silk or of jersey wool are worn by these young girls and misses, made like those worn by ladies.

WRAPS AND HATS.

Infants' long cloaks are made this season of white cashmere deeply smocked at the top in back and front, with plain or with full sleeves, and are lined with white silk wadded and quilt. ed; they have white ribbon to tie at the throat and as bows on the sleeves, and are otherwise untrimmed. The newest caps for babies are made of Valenciennes insertions alternating with inch-wide ribbon in stripes from the flat crown to the front, and are worn with a veil of plain net, with white ribbon run through the inch-wide hem which is on three sides of it, or else with a woven net veil of silk or of Shetland wool.

The

first short cloaks, worn when the child is six months or a year old, are also of white cashmere, smocked, and with large full sleeves that are smocked at the wrists; these cloaks are in the Mother Hubbard shapes, are lined with wadded quilted silk, and have ribbon bows in front and on the sleeves. Colored smocked cloaks similarly made of red, Gobelin blue, brown, or gray cashmere are put on children from eighteen months to three years old. Other styles for the first colored cloaks of gray, blue, red, or brown cloth have a pleated waist with full sleeves and gathered skirt; the pleats begin on the shoulders and taper to the waist line; watered ribbon bretelles extend over the shoulders, ending in two large rosettes behind at the waist line, and a bow with ends in front; there are four bands of ribbon around the lower part of the sleeves, below their full puffy top, also on the turned-over collar, and there is a round hood lined with silk to match the ribbon; this cloak is especially pretty in gray cloth with white ribbons. To match these cloaks are little caps or bonnets made of embroidered silk, or of the material of the cloak, with shirred front, velvet crown, and a full lace ruche next the face.

wi

For larger girls are Directoire redingotes and the new full round Connemara cloaks. The redingotes are of plain cloth trimmed with fur, usually beaver or Astrakhan, or else of the new barred and striped cloths trimmed with velvet revers and cord gimps. The crossbarred cloths all of one color, with the bars merely of different weaving, are in all the new shades of bronze, red, and blue, and the striped cloths are also of woven stripes, but more often of contrasting colors, as dull red with gray, green with brown, or blue with red. The large full round peasant cloaks with a yoke, or else pleated or gathered to a collar or to a full gorgerette (like that illustrated for ladies on page 601 of Bazar No. 36, Vol. XXI.), are made of barred cloths in gay colors and in Scotch plaids, or else rough wool plaids of blue and white, red and white, or green. Misses' ulsters of plaid rough-finished wool and Cheviots have two or three Carrick capes, with sometimes a Watteau-pleated back and double sleeves. Tailor jackets of the barred cloths with coachmen's capes are also made for young girls, while to complete their cloth costumes are Directoire coats with fitted backs and lapped fronts that have wide revers of velvet or fur.

her religious belief, HARRIET BEECHER STOWE replied: "As to my religious belief, it is embodied in the Apostles' Creed given in the Episcopal Prayer-book. As to the practical use I make of it, I refer you to my writings-particularly Uncle Tom's Cabin-and my religious poems. I have all my life sincerely endeavored to mould my life in accordance with these beliefs.' -CORNELIUS VANDERBILT has leased the residence of the Duke of Sutherland in London, and WILLIAM K. VANDERBILT has secured that of Lord LANSDOWNE.

-Mr. GEORGE G. HAVEN, of New York, has just finished his summer cottage at Lenox, Massachusetts. The place is named "Sunnycroft," and the house is built in Colonial style, painted yellow, and trimmed with white. A hali fifty by twenty feet runs through the centre, and the rooms opening out of it are proportionately large. The woods used for panelling, etc., are mahogany, cherry, ah, and oak. Mr. HAVEN has not spared his plumbing bill. All the water-pipes are brass and in plain sight, so any leaks can be easily mended. The stables are models of what stables should be, and the people of Lenox are congratulating themselves upon the addition of so beautiful a place to their hills. -There was some wonderfully fine dressing to be seen at the wedding of the Princess LETITIA to her uncle the Duke of Aosta. The Queen of Portugal wore a dress of cream-colored point and duchesse mixed, which, the reports say, had been "soaked in thin chocolate and steam dried." Over this was a pale velvet court mantle embroidered entirely in gold. She wore a diamond coronet on her head, and the front of her dress was studded with diamonds. The Queen of Italy was dressed in lace of fabulous value, and wore a garnet train embroidered in gold marguerites. Her necklace consisted of eight rows of perfectly matched pearls.

-There was a grand reunion of the BILLINGS family at Springfield, Massachusetts, recently. Several hundred members were present, all descendants of three BILLINGS brothers who came to this country in 1640. Many family heirlooms were exhibited, consisting of portraits, tablelinen, and bric-a-brac. It was voted to publish a history of the BILLINGS family which CHARLES BILLINGS had prepared.

-ROBERT E. LEE, President of Washington and Lee University, at Lexington, Virginia, and son of the Confederate General, when he gives a particularly important dinner party, spreads his table with a linen cloth in the corner of which are worked the initials "G. W.," and they stand for the true and only "G. W.," having formerly belonged to GEORGE WASHINGTON, from whose august possession they have descended to their present owner, who is a direct descendant from MARTHA WASHINGTON. The LEES own other bits of WASHINGTON's possessions in the way of silver and china, but nothing brings that venerated family nearer to our own time than this well-darned table-linen.

-It is a growing fashion in young ladies' schools to secure the services of well-known literary women as instructors in English literature. Mrs. LUCY C. LILLIE has accepted such a position in the Brighton Heights Seminary, Staten Island, and Mrs. CHARLOTTE FISKE BATES, the poet and reader, from Cambridge, has connected herself in like manner with the Salisbury School for Young Ladies, in New York. Miss ROSE ELIZABETH CLEVELAND has given up the position she held last year at Mrs. SYLVANU REED'S school, and returned to her home at Hol land Patent.

-W. M. IVINS, City Treasurer of New York, is a young man, being still in his thirties. He began his business career in a publishing house; then he was employed for a while by the American News Company. He left that position to become Mayor GRACE's private secretary, and while holding that position he displayed those qualities that resulted in his present appointment. Of all things, Mr. IVINS is a worker. When he was secretary to the Mayor it was no unusual thing for him to work thirty-six hours at a stretch. If he brought his work home, it was always shared by his wife, who has proved herself a helpmate in his business as well as domestic affairs. Mr. IvINS has found time in his busy life to thoroughly master the Spanish language and cultivate a taste for Spanish literature, particularly the modern writers, who he thinks are not sufficiently appreciated by the publishers of translations.

-Another wonderful blind man has made his appearance in the newspapers. His name is ALDEN F. HAYS, and he lives near Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Mr. HAYS keeps a coal-yard, and he conducts the entire business himself. He writes all of his letters on a type-writing machine, but he keeps his books with pen and ink. He walks all about the town by himself, and without the help of a cane, and on Sundays he plays the organ in the Presbyterian church. Mr. HAYS is a son of General ALEXANDER HAYS, who lost his life in the battle of the Wilderness. -West Farms, New York, a little hamlet on the Bronx River, enjoys the possession of a native naturalist in the person of Mr. JAMES ANGUS, a gentleman now well on in his seventies. Mr. ANGUS is said to have a most remarkable collection of insects, and he has had the honor of hav

Directoire round hats of felt, with brim wide in front and slightly rolled upward, then sloped very narrow behind, will be worn by small and large girls alike. The crown is low, but is height-ing a Catocala moth named after him. Mr. ANened by loops of ribbon coming over it from the back, and by ostrich tips in front. A bow of velvet in front on the velvet-faced brim is a feature of these hats. Ostrich bands lying flat outside of the brim are on other hats for young girls, and they will also wear low toques and English turbans of cloth, velvet, and felt.

For information received thanks are due Messrs. ARNOLD, CONSTABLE, & Co.; LORD & TAYLOR; AITKEN, SON, & Co.; and E. A. MORRISON.

PERSONAL.

GUS is a tall, thin man, whose years hang as loosely upon him as do his clothes. He has a snowwhite beard reaching to his waist, and his long gray hair is curiously streaked with tufts of jet black. He goes about Westchester County with a net over his shoulder and a collecting-bottle in his pocket, and takes a fence as nimbly as a boy in his chase after a new variety of butterfly.

-One of the last of the old New York houses is that built by GOUVERNEUR MORRIS at Morrisania. The original house was built 250 years ago. The one now standing is comparatively modern, having been built in 1800. It stands on an eminence overlooking the East River and the Harlem, and commanding a picturesque view of New York city. The outside walls of the house are three feet thick, and the partition walls are. almost as solid. All the building material, even the panelling of the rooms, was brought from France, and so was the furniture. The same furniture is in it to-day that GOUVERNEUR MORRIS imported eighty-eight years ago. The house now belongs to Mrs. ALFRED DAVENPORT, of New York, who is a granddaughter of the original owner, and who lives there part of every year. Although within a stone's-throw of rows of houses and blocks of "flats," this old place is surrounded by thirty acres of land, which, it is needless to say, will be very valuable some day.

Fig. 2, which is made of white lace three inches and a half wide, has a turned-down collar at the neck, composed of two lapping rows of pleated lace set on a ribbon band, and with a white ribbon bow at the throat. The ends, which are twenty-five inches long, are composed of gathered lace sewed spirally around a white silk cord in the manner described for Fig. 1. Eleven yards of lace are required for the ends, and three yards and three-quarters for the collar.

Autumn Walking
Toilettes.

THE dress shown in Fig. 1 is of granite camel's-hair serge. The full straight skirt, almost five yards wide, has a band of embroidered galloon in the dress color and black around the bottom, and is pleated in box pleats. The dress is completed by a jacket-basque with a vest, trimmed with bands of galloon in Breton fashion, outlining the jacket and barring the vest.

Fig. 2, a dress of light beaver brown cashmere, has the front and sides of the skirt bordered with deep embroidery at the bot

The bodice, or rather demipolonaise, has a full pointed front and pointed embroidered yoke; the back and sides have full breadths cut on below the waist, pleated in broad pleats, and hanging in straight folds to the bottom of the skirt. The sleeves have puffs with a ribbon bracelet at the shoulder. The collar and cuffs

are embroidered. A pointed ribbon belt with a long bow finishes the front of the bodice.

AUTUMN WALKING TOILETTES.

Fig. 1.-SERGE DRESS WITH GALLOON. Fig. 2.-EMBROIDERED CASHMERE DRESS.

their best thoughts into lines of ornament will always find recognition.

It is for this reason that geometric ornament is said to wear well. It has been tested. Line answers to line. Everything which is ineffective has been rejected, until a simple satisfactory form remains, which does not require judgment or excite remark, and yet pleases by variation.

It must be remembered, however, that this applies only to the kind of ornamentation which is like the daily bread of life to us,

to the things we live with and see hourly and daily, with which we lie down and rise up.

There seems to be some subtle necessity in our natures for absolute mechanical regularity in form, for geometric foundation of line, in the things we live by and with. The graceful irregularity of nature belongs to the emotional side of humanity. The eccentricities and irregularities of nature excite conscious thought; they divert us from serious and regular occupation; but geometric ornament is an invariable fact, which requires no effort of the mind, and is therefore acceptable for hourly use.

The border design given in this number is extremely effective when used upon plush or velvet with an underletting of cloth or gold. It is appropriate for pieces of moderate size, like table scarfs, pieces for dinner-table centres, or for a cover for an upright piano. If it is wanted for the last-mentioned purpose, and the piano stands away from the wall, as is usually the case where vocal as well as instrumental music is the habit of the house, it will be necessary to make a piece of dra