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EARLY AUTUMN TOILETTES.-[FOR DESCRIPTIONS SEE SUPPLEMENT.]

Fig. 1.-PLAID WOOL COSTUME. Fig. 2.-FIGURED INDIA SILK DRESS.

AN IDEAL EXCLUSIVENESS. HAT would be an ideal exclusiveness which would only admit the cultivated, the good, the wise, and the elegant. We dream of such a society-a society which could exist only in Utopia. But where then would be the crowded halls of fashion? We fear very lonely, for, in spite of a determined exclusiveness the most disagreeable men and women get into the most fashionable society. It is to be feared that the possession of wealth is more desired therein than any other attribute, and that much is forgiven the rich man which would be rank heresy in the poor one. We have no such lofty standard that we can rate Dives and Lazarus before their death as they were rated afterward. Dives gives too good dinners; we enjoy his terrapin and his music. A handsome, fascinating woman who can amuse the company is not made the subject of too severely scrutinizing inquiry. She is apt to get into our parties in spite of even a supposed exclusiveness. An ideal exclusiveness, therefore, which in society is like the test of credit in Wall Street, has this advantage: it causes a lady to pause and to inquire into the general characteristics of her guests, their moral and social standing.

Fig. 3.-YOUNG GIRL'S SERGE DRESS.

To a young person entering society we should recommend a certain exclusiveness. It is always wise to choose one's friends slowly and with a certain considerateness. We are not perfect beings ourselves, we do not wish to be intimate with too much imperfection. A broken friendship is a very painful thing. We should think twice before we give our intimate friendship to anybody. Still less should we recommend a young person to choose his or her friend from the worldly point of fashion or wealth alone. Try to find out who are good and true, honorable, generous, and wellbred, well-educated, and well-mannered, wherever they may be. It is then of no consequence what is the shade of fashion, these people are always good society.

It is not at all impossible to find such people in the highest ranks of fashion, for good company makes many virtues. Politeness, self-possession, fine manners, strike in as well as out, and the gay salon shows many a glimpse of beautiful characters. By no means suppose, because some leaders of fashion are insolent, that all are. Try in all conditions of life to read character first, and then to be slow in denouncing any class as a class.

It is curious to observe in every city, every small village, every watering-place, how soon there grows up an attempt at exclusive

ness, and how soon it may degenerate into snobbishness, which is the undergrowth of fashion. It is the shadow, the toadstool, the malaria of good society. A rich young man often thinks it an aristocratic thing to do to insult some one less well known than himself. He of course becomes unpopular; unfortunately he is called exclusive, thus injuring a good word. There are always weak people who wish to be invited to his parties, and who will curry favor by submitting to his insults.

The law of primogeniture in England has, it is feared, made a class of selfish men who are painfully exclusive. It is a dangerous power to give a young man, to enable him to turn his mother, sisters, and younger brothers out-of-doors when he becomes of age. It engenders the profoundest selfishness; it makes a privileged class who can throw dust with impunity. The younger brothers cannot complain, because they want patronage. Fortunately we have no such class in this country.

There is no doubt that in a selfish point of view exclusiveness helps a fashionable woman. It gives her a sort of dignity and prestige which those cannot claim who open their doors to all the world. It seems to say that she is superior to society in general. On the other hand, no man or woman, not even an idea, has ever

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