1976 American Alpine Journal

A.A.C. and Japanese altitude illness attempt August avalanche bad weather Base Camp belay bergschrund bivouac buttress Cerro Cerro Torre Chogolisa climbers Cordillera Blanca cornice couloir crack crest Dave descent east face east ridge Everest expedition feet finally fixed rope Foraker FRED BECKEY Glacier gully Himalayan Club Huandoy Huascarán Huayna Potosí ice climbing icefall ICHIRO YOSHIZAWA Japanese Alpine Club July June Kluane Kluane Lake Lake lead leader ledge Logan High March meters Michael Mike miles Moose's Tooth Mount NCCS Nevado north face north ridge northeast ridge northwest face overhanging oxygen party peak Photo pitches pitons placed Camp PLATE porters pulmonary edema Quebrada rappel reached the summit rock route second ascent Sherpa side slopes snow south face south ridge southeast southwest Spire steep storm tent Tirich Mir took tower traverse unclimbed valley wall west face west ridge