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laterally, and so the workman takes the brushes and draws these projecting bristle-ends over and between the steel teeth of one of the Separators, when all the bristles of one size and thickness corresponding with the distance between the teeth remain fixed, and, the brushes being drawn away, are left between the teeth, and col· lected. The smaller bristles are taken to other Separators and similarly assorted, till they are all disposed of.

The Standard-Bristles, as I have before intimated, are very expensive articles, and are therefore economically handled. As imported, the bundles are imperfectly assorted, and contain many foreign admixtures of wool, common hair, &c. ; and in consequence they have to be gone over by hand on arrival hero. The bundle is first opened up and cleansed of the rofuse (by the aid of a steel comb), then the colours (black, grey, and dull to pure white) and lengths are assorted by the eye and hand. This is the process :-On the bench before the worker is placed the upright wooden Standard," marked in quarter-inches, say from 1 to 9. A bundle of bristles is taken in the left hand, is well shaken and loosened, so levelled at the lower end that all the irregularity of length is shown at the upper end, and placed in front of the Standard with the right hand (the practised eye of the worker having marked the line of the longest bristles); the workman now draws them out, subjects the remainder to similar rule-work, again subtracts, and so goes from the higher to the lower inch-marks on the Standard, till all the lengths are determined and are separately laid by. After. assortment these several lengths vary in value considerably—namely, from 4s. to 30s. per pound; the longest being the stoutest and most valuable.

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The Mixing of Qualities.-The brush manufacturer needs great particularity here, and a mixing of the qualities is effected by hand in a marvellously expeditious manner. Before the artisan are placed layers of the various assorted lengths; he takes a handful of these layers in their depth, and so gets bristles of many degrees of pertinacity. Spreading or laying them ont evenly and rapidly from his right hand on to the bench before him, he gathers them with his left hand and opens them up again in another place, re-spreading and re-opening the handful till the fine and stout bristles are uniformly mixed throughout. In this process the manufacturer is able to bring down what may be termed the "tone" of his brush-that is, he can have it very stiff by using mainly the longest bristles, or he can introduce the shorter and weaker product till the right degree of tenacity is attained, with the fitting expense to the purchaser.dk

In the following description, whenever the word "back" is used the trade use the word “board" or "stock," leaving "back" to mean simply the veneer outer covering which conceals the wire-fastening of the

bristles. The bristles are introduced to the "stock," or brush-backs, through holes drilled in it, according to prescribed pattern and order, at so many holes to the inch, in such a direction, angle, &c. The common plan is to use a specimen back, already drilled as needed, and to drill through the specimen into the stock to be worked. Mr. Hodgson, however, found this system to be open to many disadvantages; among other evils, the specimen got shifted, its holes became enlarged, or the drill went through aslant; and in other ways new specimen backs were continually being required, and complaints were common that brushes supposed to be precisely of one pattern differed considerably in the position, size, and even in the number of the holes. Mr. Hodgson, with his accustomed perseverance and shrewdness, at once invented a plan, simple and efficacious, to overcome the difficulty. He caused a frame of hard wood, of the size of the brush-back, to be fitted with steel pins, of great power, arranged in the same positions as were required for the holes in the back; and now, therefore, by placing this specimen or guide on the back to be drilled, and striking it with a mallet, an impression is left of all the steel pins, and so the drill has only to be made to enter in the marks, and the brush is perfect. The steel pins will last for many years. In the brushes that are curved on the under or upper sides-such as banister brushes, spoke brushes, and other similar ordinary commodities-the eye is still the only guide to the drilling process of the lathes, that being all that is necessary under the circumstances. There are many lathes engaged in the drilling processes.

The Workroom is the place where the bristles are placed in the backs. The length of the bristles is kept in order thus:-On one side of a pair of shears is fastened a piece of level wood, just the required length of the bristles, and by resting this wooden guide on the outer end of the under side of the back (the margin of the bristle covering), and using the shears laterally over the bristle surface, the latter is reduced to the level needed. Females are occupied in the lightest and best work, the men on the heavier products, their manipulation not being so delicate for the more elegant goods.

The Finishing and Ornamentation Processes have much that is interesting to the uninitiated. The tools used are few and simple. There are Gough's rat-tailed files (the shape of which you may, of course, correctly imagine)-turn saws-saws of other kinds, to look straight ahead, cut the corner, or go right across (pig fashion)-spokeshaves a huge knife that can be turned about in any direction, one end being fixed, and the other, having a handle to be held by the artisanlathes to bore holes in the wooden patterns, to provide for the entrance of the bristles. The upper or outside backs are sometimes made of the most splendid woods, in double or single veneers, glued or

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fastened on. Thus we were shown piles on piles of "backs" proper in chesnut, plane-tree, alder, rosewood, beach, yew-tree, satin-wood, mahogany,—some of the more expensive exceedingly thin. The more elegant backs, in pearl, ivory and inlet work, are of French production, and are imported products. For the larger brooms there is also an arrangement as follows:-Under a kind of raised circular oven, gas jets are placed, protected by metal wire netting, and above is a circular pan, divided into compartments, each filled with a pitchy and resinous composition, to fasten the bristles into the stocks. Many men were thus employed at the time of our visit. The working of the huge stock knife is curious. It is made to do anything, large or small, and will round off the corners of the square "stocks" or trim up the most delicate brush, as finely as a spoke-shave. These latter are used in planing up the circular sides of the brushes, leaving behind them a high polish, and bringing out the fine grain of the woods. Sandpaper, varnish, staining, &c., are also put in requisition.

BOOKS WORTH READING.

The Students' Scripture History: The Old Testament History; from the Creation to the Return of the Jews from Captivity. Edited by WILLIAM SMITH, LL D., Classical Examiner in the University of London. With Maps and Woodcuts. London: John

Murray, Albemarle-street.

Ir was long a matter of surprise and of regret that a subject of such importance and of such general interest as a text book for the illustration of Old Testament history should still be wanting. The beautiful volume now under review efficiently supplies the want. It is a manual for the elucidation of the Old Testament, which in fulness, accuracy, and scholar-like treatment, more than rivals the histories of Greece and Rome used in our best schools. There is sober thought and sound scholarship pervading every page.

Besides giving the history recorded in the Old Testament, with the necessary explanations, notes, references, and citations, the work contains, incidentally, information on a large number of other subjects -such as the geography of the Holy Land, together with the political and ecclesiastical antiquities of the Jews. The appendices, notes, and illustrations are taken, for the most part, from the well-known and admirable Dictionary of the Bible, published by the same able editor, Dr. William Smith. The illustrations are strikingly clear and well executed.

We hope to see this volume speedily followed by its proper complement, the Students' Manual of New Testament History. We

shall then have a complete and trustworthy class-book of Scriptural Study, fitted not only for Sunday use in schools, but for the intelligent reader of Scripture at all times Jal -, Im gober

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Fasti Sacri; or, a Key to the Chronology of the New Testament... By THOMAS LEWIN, M.A., F.S.A. London: Longman, Green,.

and Co.

THE title of this work thoroughly indicates its character. It is a guide to the chronology of the New Testament, on the model of the work of Mr. Clinton on Profane Chronology. Mr. Lewin's work contains much valuable information, arranged so as to be easy of reference. We do not much approve of the preface this gentleman has prefixed to his work, setting forth its claims to be considered interesting. It does not sound well for an author of any kind to seek to cry up his own book by reference to the works of his literary brethren in such terms as these:

"Undoubtedly the slipshod reader of novels and other similar literature will seek in vain for pleasure or pastime in this volume; but there are others whose minds are braced up and kept well strung, who can ramble to their satisfaction wherever they can gather fruit."

Swedenborg and his Modern Critics (Longman and Co.), with some remarks upon the Last Times, is an ably written controversial work, by the Rev. Augustus Clissold, M.A. EN HIG5W ZIJOS

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THE Spring fashions, exhibit, no very, marked changes from former seasons. Alpacas, both plain and embroidered, will again be worn, also the dull stout mixed material speckled with white, which was introduced last year. A new material called Drap Imperial is delicate in shades of colour, lady-like in appearance, and calculated to wear well. It is woven plain, as soft to touch in appearance as French merino, but as stout as a fine linsey. An English imitation of this is less choice in colour. Poult de chevre is again making its appearance amongst fashionable materials. It is as glossy as silk, and wears well.. Imitations are not wanting, but they are dull. Stripes are still to be seen on all materials and in all colours. They are chiefly rather broad and far apart. Some are plain satin ribbon stripes on these fancy materials, others composed of groups of smaller stripes, or varied by a pattern. The Drap Imperial is plain. A mohair skirting for petticoats has been introduced. It has broken stripes on a white ground. Black narrow stripes on a white ground in all suitable materials will be used for under skirts. French cambrics in this style are produced in various colours with white grounds. Plain alpaca skirts of the old varied brown 'tints also offer useful material for wear.

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In mantles the Anne Boleyn sleeve is to be seen, but cut rather short. This is a hanging sleeve open to the shoulder. It is not likely to be generally adopted, as its appearance is stiff and awkward. Demi

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adjuste and tight-fitting mantles, with the belt outside, and made in black gros grain, chiefly trimmed with the same material, will be worn by young ladies. Paletots trimmed at the back, where the figure is not suited to display, and deep mantles with full backs for elderly ladies are still the style. Jet trimmings are used, and also Cluny lace in black and white. Mantles can be worn either long or short, but for all, except elderly persons, we recommend them rather short, because that style is more dressy. Tall figures should never wear this article of dress so diminished in size as to give a lanky appearance to the skirt. A very jaunty style of bonnet has made its debut, but it is only suited to young faces, and fitted for fêtes. For bridesmaids' toilettes it will prove charming. In shape it exactly resembles a meat-plate, bent a little at the sides where the strings draw it to the head; made in white pique straw or white tulle, and garbarded with lilies, it is very pretty. Broad white tulle ends can be united under the chin as strings, or pinned beneath the chignon behind as a veil. A chapeau of this shape in fine straw was crossed outside by white ribbons forming strings and on the top a bow of black velvet with short ends. The inside was lined all round with puffed blue crape. The Honiton bonnets are worn again and look well for style. The cuipore are modified, but not abandoned. The pamela is to be seen, but does not gain much favour. We have seen bonnets that appear to be a compound of these three!

It is expected that a delicate apple green will be the favourite colour of the season. Mauve, however, abounds, and also black and

white.

Parasols are larger, round, and flatter in shape, and the handles are thick and massive. The Pagoda shape is out of fashion. Gloves are worn with two buttons. Gold and silver heels for boots form one of the caprices of the day. The Greek style still prevails in hair-dressing; but broad massive plaits are much worn as coronets placed low on the forehead, and describing a circle above the face towards the ears. With these a few Greek curls are suffered to fall upon the forehead.

NEEDLEWORK.

CORAL TRIMMING FOR A CHILD'S FROCK.
The Edging.

A piece of fine scarlet braid, waved. Walter Evans and Co.'s boar's head cotton, No. 14; Walker's Penelope needle, No. 3.

1st row: 1 tr. into the first point of the braid; 1 tr. into the second point, make 3 ch., and repeat to the length required.

2nd row:

repeat.

3 tr. over 3 ch., 1 ch., miss the two tr. of last row, and

3rd row: Begin to work now on the other side of the braid; make one tr. on the second point, and work the same as the first row. By beginning on the second point the pattern is reversed, to give the coral effect.

4th row 1 d. c., 5 ch., * d. c. between the two tr. of last row, 5 ch., d. c. over 3 ch., 5 ch., and repeat from *.

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