2000 American Alpine Journal

acclimatization aid climbing Alex alpine Andrej arête attempt August avalanche Base Camp belay bergschrund bivouac bivy bolts Brakk Breashears buttress Cerro Cerro Torre Cho Polu climbers Club continued couloir crevasses descent Dhaulagiri dihedral east face east ridge established Everest expedition feet fixed ropes followed four free climbing Gasherbrum gear Glacier granite gully Gyachung Kang HAPE headwall Himalayan icefall July jumared June Karakoram ledge Mallory meters morning mountain National Park night north face northeast ridge northwest face October overhanging Patagonia Peak pillar pitons portaledge rappel reached the summit retreat rock climbing route serac Sherpas side slab slope snow solo south face south ridge southeast spent Spire started steep Steve storm supplemental oxygen tent Thalay Sagar three pitches Timothy O'Neill Tomaž took Trango Tower traverse trip unclimbed Valley wall west face wind Yosemite