Pasta: The Story of a Universal Food

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Columbia University Press, 2002 - 439 pagine
Ranging from the imperial palaces of ancient China and the bakeries of fourteenth-century Genoa and Naples all the way to the restaurant kitchens of today, Pasta tells a story that will forever change the way you look at your next plate of vermicelli. Pasta has become a ubiquitous food, present in regional diets around the world and available in a host of shapes, sizes, textures, and tastes. Yet, although it has become a mass-produced commodity, it remains uniquely adaptable to innumerable recipes and individual creativity. Pasta: The Story of a Universal Food shows that this enormously popular food has resulted from of a lengthy process of cultural construction and widely diverse knowledge, skills, and techniques.

Many myths are intertwined with the history of pasta, particularly the idea that Marco Polo brought pasta back from China and introduced it to Europe. That story, concocted in the early twentieth century by the trade magazine Macaroni Journal, is just one of many fictions umasked here. The true homelands of pasta have been China and Italy. Each gave rise to different but complementary culinary traditions that have spread throughout the world. From China has come pasta made with soft wheat flour, often served in broth with fresh vegetables, finely sliced meat, or chunks of fish or shellfish. Pastasciutta, the Italian style of pasta, is generally made with durum wheat semolina and presented in thick, tomato-based sauces. The history of these traditions, told here in fascinating detail, is interwoven with the legacies of expanding and contracting empires, the growth of mercantilist guilds and mass industrialization, and the rise of food as an art form.

Whether you are interested in the origins of lasagna, the strange genesis of the Chinese pasta bing or the mystique of the most magnificent pasta of all, the timballo, this is the book for you. So dig in!
 

Sommario

In the Beginning Was Wheat
1
The Infancy of an Art
9
the classical heritage
15
the primordial shape
22
the original dough sheet
24
dry pasta fresh pasta
32
recognition of a culinary category
38
sardinia and other centers of production
44
alsace and the passion for egg pasta
184
The Time of Plenty
197
the italian reconquest
203
victories and defeats in the regulation
212
the empire of fresh pasta
222
a tradition that comes from faraway
230
shapes colors and flavors
238
from pasta that melts in your mouth to pasta al dente
253

the market for dry pasta
50
rolling pins blades and brakes
56
From the Hand to the Extrusion Press
63
the emancipation of the pasta makers
70
the triumph of the brake
77
the revolution of the extrusion press
83
The Golden Age of the Pasta Manufactory
91
artisanal manufacturing
98
natural drying
108
a short guide to italian manufacturers
115
The Industrial
127
the mechanics of progress
133
the bronze man or the automated dough kneader
136
the triumph of the machine
142
drying without sunlight
150
the splendor and misery of a world
157
Pasta Without Borders
169
transatlantic migrations
175
pasta and its companions
257
pasta on the menu
267
the BING paradigm
276
favorite food of scholarly society
286
the worshipful BING
294
the first recipes
304
91
308
the popularity of BING throughout china
311
exotic flavors methods and preparations
325
127
328
The Words of Pasta
345
neapolitan folklore
352
the dreams of the hand
358
Bibliography
391
Index
413
197
420
Copyright

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