Old Clothes, New Looks: Second-Hand FashionAlexandra Palmer, Hazel Clark Berg Publishers, 2005 - 255 pagine Recent interest in 'vintage' and second hand clothes by both fashion consumers and designers is only the latest manifestation of a long and complex cultural history of wearing and trading second hand clothes. With its origins in necessity, the passing of clothes between social and economic groups is now a global business, but with roots that are centuries old. To move from one social and cultural situation to another used clothes must be 'transformed' to become of potential value to a new social group. How, when and why this has happened is the subject of this book. Old Clothes, New Looks presents a three-part focus on the history, the trading culture, and the contemporary refashioning of second hand clothing. Historical perspectives include studies located in Renaissance Florence, early industrial England, colonial Australia, and mid twentieth-century Ireland. The global nature of the second hand trade in clothing is presented through original research from Zambia, India, the Philippines, Hong Kong, and Japan. The reuse of garments as contemporary fashion statements is explored through studies that include neo-mod retro-sixties subculture in Germany, the impact of 'vintage' in the USA on consumers and designers, as well as consideration of its sartorial and cultural challenges, encapsulated by the work of designer XULY.Bet. This groundbreaking book will be essential reading for all those interested in fashion and dress, material culture, consumption and anthropology, as well as to dealers, collectors and wearers of second hand clothes. |
Sommario
Introduction | 9 |
the Culture and Economy | 29 |
Civilization Charity or Commerce? | 49 |
Copyright | |
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Old Clothes, New Looks: Second-Hand Fashion Alexandra Palmer,Hazel Clark Visualizzazione estratti - 2005 |
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Aborigines Africa Alexandra Palmer America Angela McRobbie Australia authentic Baguio City bales Banaue bartanwale Baye Fall boutiques brand century clothes dealers colonial commodity consumers consumption contemporary context create economic edited European exchange fabrics fashion design fashion system female Florence garments gender global fashion guild Hansen Hazel Clark Hong Kong identity Ifugao important imported second hand Ireland Japan Japanese Kamali kimono Kouyaté label Lemire London look material culture means Mouride Museum narrative Norma Kamali old clothes original Paddy's Market parcels past pawnbrokers Pawned Photograph pieces practices purchase Rag Fair recycled clothing retail retro reuse rigattieri role salaula saris second hand clothing second hand dress second hand trade selling shirts shops silk sixties scene social sold Street style Sydney textiles transformed ukay-ukay University Press urban vendors vintage clothing wear Western women worn XULY Xuly Bet XULY.Bët York Zambia