I described when speaking of the costume of the Westrobothnians, not having been greased for some days, afforded no resistance to the wet, so that we walked as if on well steeped sponges; yet, after climbing the three miles, perpetually sinking into the moss up to the calf of the leg, we found ourselves less fatigued than we were at setting off: I attribute this vigour to the habit of exercise, to the frugal regimen we were compelled to use, to the cold baths we took every day in the lakes or rivers, to the bracing air of these climates, and, perhaps, also to the humidity which refreshed our feet.

"Having attained the summit of the mountains we found the descent very rugged, but the striking objects which arrested our attention indemnified us for our pains, though the fog still hindered us from seeing to any distance.

"It has been observed that the whole of this vast chain of mountains, which extends from the lower part of Dalecarlia to the White Sea, following nearly the same direction with the coasts, in general rises with a gentle acclivity on the south side, and descends almost precipitously towards the sea: the length is about one hundred and fifty miles, and the breadth from twelve to fifteen.

"After descending almost per pendicularly for half a mile we left the region of the clouds, and then, on turning towards the heights we had left, we bebeld a wall of slate rocks, whose tops, yet wrapped in clouds, were almost entirely covered with snow, and from them dashed innumerable cascades. Two of these issuing from the hollows of the rock appeared frozen and fixed, but looking at them attentively I could

discern the motion of the water : their appearance was rather remarkable than beautiful. A little lower, where the declivity was less steep, the ground was arid and without verdure, excepting some birch-trees which vegetated here and there. In the bottom of the valleys were several lakes where the waters of these cataracts collected together to form new ones. Each step that we advanced an infinity of scenes of this description presented themselves. Immense rocks of slate, graduating to a peak, contrasted their dark colour with the vast masses of snow and the cascades of equally dazzling whiteness. The sky cleared up, and verdure began to appear by degrees at the foot of the rocks. Amongst many of these views I sketched but one, which appeared to me the most picturesque, otherwise choice would be difficult; for, in less than a mile I could have found sufficient to fill a cabinet.

"The base of the mountains forms, perhaps, one of the most agreeable, and of, at the same time, the most impressive, views in the world; a vast declivity covered with the most beautiful turf, and trees, of a vegetation most surprising in these places, inclines towards a plain extending to the sea, which is a about a mile distant; many little rivulets, formed by the cascades noticed above, roll their chrystal floods under the shade of these copses, and, now stealing through the grass and flowers, now expanding into glassy-lakes, bear the tribute of their waters to the river of Alten or to the Aiby, which falls into the former.

"No flocks browse on the rich and flowery herbage which covers the soil, and never scythe approaches

it.

it. We saw again with pleasure many of the trees we had observed in the heart of Sweden;-the birch, the pine, the aspin, the willow, the services, yield not to those of any country, and the flowers of our meadows grow there in even greater luxuriance; add to these, the finest sky, illuminated by the sun at midnight, after two days of rain, and, (excepting the presence of human beings,) all that the fancy can conceive most beautiful, yet, a faint idea only of the charms of these scenes will be ob-tained. A few birds alone disturbed the profound silence of nature, and hailed by their songs the delightful season. Inhabitants only are wanted in these enchanting re gions to render them an earthly paradise; but, alas! this paradise exists but for two or three months in the year; during the remainder of which the beauties of nature are surrendered to the severity of frost, or buried under snows of immense thickness.

"The contemplation of these objects made us forget the fatigues of a march of four miles. But the schoolmaster of Kautokeino, who had undertaken an enterprise beyond his powers, with the prospect of gain, could not so console himself. At the beginning of the march he had, with the cunning of an experienced man, chosen a load which looked heavy enough, yet, in fact, weighed almost nothing; but having imprudently walked too nimbly, and exhibiting no marks of fatigue at the end of three miles, one of his companions, who knew him, suspected his deceit, and immediately resolved upon trying his burthen; all being then discovered, the other Laplanders unanimously insisted that he should take something to

carry from each; the poor fellow, perceiving they were not joking, submitted, and proceeded with so sad an air that we could not but pity him; but, as he had been the means of increasing the price, that that he might receive the advantage without partaking in the labour of the others, we did not chuse to interfere in the business.

The

"During the passage over the mountains we had not seen a single quadruped, although there are plenty of bears, wolves, foxes of many kinds, wild rein-deer, &c. a a sort of fatality seemed to be opposed to our curiosity, or, rather the incessant din of our Laplanders drove these animals from us. only remarkable thing of the kind which we met with was a skin of the species of rat, mus lemmus, which forming, as we were told, innumerable armies, advance from north to south in a straight line, without ever deviating, to avoid any impediment they may meet with, and at last drown themselves in the Gulf of Bothnia; this at least is the unvaried account of the inhabitants. This phenomenon, which does not happen every year, nor at any certain time, may furnish ample matter of discussion to naturalists; but it will be requisite to begin by ascertaining facts: what is certain is, that numerous troops of these animals have been observed proceeding from north to south; the rest of the story calls for a more detailed investigation.

"After traversing the delightful thickets which cover the foot of the mountains, we entered a forest of large and superb pines; but a fire caused by the lightning, had destroyed the greater part: this forest conducted us to the river of Alten, which we recognized as an old friend, and whose banks, tufted

with elms, willows, and services, we now followed until, after crossing the chain of mountains and forming dreadful cataracts, it gently

rolls its limpid waters over a pure sandy bottom, to lose them in the Frozen Sea."

W

E made immediate inquiry as to the means of getting to the North Cape, and were informed, that the most safe was to hire a small boat, that, in case of a storm, we might easily get on shore, but that it would be some days before good rowers could be procured. An intelligent man was despatched to seek them. This sea abounds in delicious fish, such as the pleuronectes hippoglossus, in Swedish helgeslundra, (some of them are of monstrous size, but those of from thirty to forty pounds in weight are the best,) gadus collarius, whitings, herrings, &c. But we were disap. pointed in our hopes of finding oysters and lobsters, which are so common on the southern coasts of Norway.

"Cows and sheep are fed here; the meat, milk, and butter, are excellent. The vessels which come to export fish and skins bring flour, liquors, wines, and all sorts of spices. One advantage, of which we feel ingly estimated the value, was that of being relieved from the gnats, which the sea-wind drove from the

coasts.

Alten, a sea port and commercial depot, is situate on the shore of a bay called Kaaford, which is a part of Altenfiord, or the Gulf of

A

Alten. The elevation of the pole at this place is 69° 55′ latitude. Danish vessel was riding in the harbour, waiting for her cargo of dried. and salted fish, of which there is a considerable exportation; near the shore were several warehouses, or stores, full of it, beside which there were several piles in the open air. A promontory, composed of a white and reddish rock, pushes into the sea and forms the interior of the bay.

On the opposite side, the gulph is bounded by a range of lofty mountains, whose tops, crowned with snow, rise to the clouds. The air of Alten is pure and very salubrious. The soil is sandy, but tolerably fertile. In the small kitchen-gardens are potatoes and brown cabbages, but little else is sown excepting barley. The prevailing

trees are pines and birch.

"The part of the Frozen Ocean which washes these coasts is never frozen except in the interior of the bays, where the water, otherwise extremely salt, is tempered with the soft water of some river or stream, which empties itself into it. It is reckoned seventeen miles only from hence to the North Cape, and, with a glass, the floating masses which are detached from the eternal ice of the poles, may be discerned.

"On

"On the 15th of July we obtained a suitable boat, and four good Norwegian rowers, one of whom was an old and experienced pilot; taking, therefore, provisions sufficient to last us for some days, if necessity obliged us to land on the coasts, we hoisted our sail, at two in the afternoon, with a moderately fair wind, and in the finest weather possible. Our course was always northward. amongst tongues of land which stretched into the sea, forming a number of deep retiring inlets. The coasts, bounded by vast mountains, generally terminating in peaks. On their west and south sides, as we had observed to be the case on our passage over the Fjällen mountains, there were almost invariably some drifts of snow, and the huts of the fishermen were generally on the eastern shore of the bays. The wind from the main sea sometimes rushed through the deep valleys in gusts which would have overset our boat if we had not taken care to haul down the sail as soon as we perceived them, and, after those alarms, we suddenly found ourselves becalmed under the shelter of the mountains. The aspect of the sea changed every instant; sometimes like a polished mirror, it reflected the hideous rocks on its shores; sometimes its surface, ruffled by a gentle wind, assumed a deep azure colour; and then, agitated by the hurricane, its waves became entirely dark or whitened with foam. The wind was equally changeable, owing to the sinuous defiles through which it passed, so that there was no relaxation for those who directed the helm or managed the sail. The tide rises considerably for six hours, and goes down in the same period, producing a great swell in the water, especially if the wind is contrary to the current; in the streights we

had frequently almost cataracts to. mount and descend. But the skill of the rowers soon gave us so much confidence that we could indulge in the contemplation of the stupendous scenes, which succeeded to each other with the rapidity of a dream.

"The rocks of these coasts are composed of a very friable schistus, and their bases are almost covered with their ruins. The wind having abated and our rowers being tired, we went on shore at the mouth of a little river, which falls in a cascade into the sea. After climbing the rocks from which it descended we saw one of more considerable magnitude, upon the same river, which between the two falls meanders through a plain shaded with cheerful groves, clad in rich verdure and surrounded by towering rocks; at this place we found the dwelling of a Lapland fisherman, consisting of five cells, built of wood and covered with turf and the bark of trees. The centre one is the dwelling of the inhabitants, having in the midst a small circle of stones for a hearth, and an opening in the roof to emit the smoke; at the distance of an ell and au half from the fire was another circle, of boards; between which and the wall some straw or birch leaves covered with rein-deer skins or coarse woollen stuffs forms the common bed of the family; against the wall, or partition, jars of milk are usually arranged. The other apartments surround this and communicate with it. That through which we entered serves as a vestibule, or hall, and the tools, nets, &c. are kept there. Another is for the cows, one for the sheep, and one for a pantry. Without, there was a small hovel of the common form, used as a store-house, We were

told

told that the bears frequently visit these magazines.

"Such of the Laplanders, as live by fishing and the breeding of cattle are less savage than might be supposed; by selling their fish and purchasing flour and brandy, the only articles for which they have occasion, they have frequent intercourse with the inhabitants of Alten, and other mercantile establishments which will be mentioned; nevertheless, it is dangerous to come near their huts unawares, without knowing how to address them; for they are armed with guns, and the dread of being plundered makes them ferocious. It has been remarked that the majority of these fishers perish in the waves: the Frozen Sea is extremely perfidious, especially in the autumn and winter, and the priests assured us that very few of these people are brought to be buried.

"The boatmen being refreshed, we went on board about midnight, but the western mountains hid the sun from us, though it was reflected on those of the opposite side. There was but little wind for the remainder of the night and the next day, so that we made a very tardy progress, and almost entirely by means of the oars. During this course we observed the hut of some Lapland fishermen situated on a small hill between two enormous rocks, whose summits strike the skies. The striking contrast between the rich verdure of the hill and the rugged forms of the rock; the beauty of the sea, unruffled by the slightest breeze; the melancholy and isolated situation of this hut, which had no possible communication with society but by a sea oftener angry than placid; altogether contributed to render the scene highly interesting.

"As the wind gradually abated, the heat increased, and a suffocating vapour arose from the sea, which was the more extraordinary, because the water grew colder, as we advanced northward. In the evening we landed near the huts of some fishermen, and staid there some hours.

Her

"In one of these huts, enlightened by the feeble beams of a neverextinguished fire, there was an old woman who was sick, and appeared to be ninety years of age. daughter-in-law, a very pretty young woman, and of an uncommonly sweet countenance, shewed her the tenderest attention. On seeing the pilot, the old lady burst into tears, whilst her daughter-in-law strove to console her. When she ceased weeping she fixed her looks on the earth with the most marked expression of excessive grief, and the pilot and sailors wept in their turn. After many inquiries, as to the occasion of such extreme sorrow, we learned that, the last time these men had visited this place, this good woman enjoyed a perfect state of health, but on the very day of their departure she had an apoplectic fit, which deprived her of speech, and from that time she had continued in the same condition. This scene, the relation of which may appear ridiculous, greatly affected us at the time.

The tears

of these brave Norwegians, who would have met with smiles the most dreadful dangers, prove that insensibility does not constitute true courage, and that human nature in all its primitive strength of character is susceptible of the gentlest emotions, which to a feeling heart affords an interesting fact.

"When the violence of their grief was a little appeased, the old woman motioned us to sit down,

or