dience of his Holiness by himself first, and then he introduc'd me. I fell on my Knees at the Door, according to Cuftom, and then rifing again, advanc'd to the Middle of the Room, where I was preparing for a fecond Genuflexion; but the Pope prevented me, by beckoning me with his Hand to advance, and calling out to me Aventi, Aventi, i.e. Come forwards. I obey'd till I came to his Feet, when I fell on my Knees and kifs'd an embroider'd Crofs which was on his Holiness's Slippers. The Pope gave me his Blefling, and commanded me to rife. He did me the Honour to talk to me a good while, concerning the good Fortune I had to embrace the Catholic Religion; ask'd me feveral Questions relating to my Converfion, and feem'd fo overjoy'd at the Grace God had given me, that he could not refrain fhedding fome Tears. He then ask'd me News about the State of Religion in Germany, and highly extoll'd the Zeal which the Elector Palatine manifefted for the Catholic Religion. He concluded with exhorting me to continue ftedfaft in the Opinion I had been fo happy as to embrace; and when his Holinefs difmifs'd me, he made me a Present of several Agnis Dei's, two little Medals, one of Gold the other of Silver, and a Dispensation to eat Flefh in Lent.

I ftay'd at Rome till Lent was over, that I might have a Sight of the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; at which Time the Court of the Sovereign Pontiff appears in its utmost Splendor. His Holiness fet out on Wednesday in the Holy Week from Monte Cavallo for the Vatican Palace, with very great Ceremony, and a numerous Retinue: The Prelates and Officers of his Holinefs's Houfhold went first, who were all on

Horfe

Horseback in wide Caffocks, which really made a very fcurvy Figure; for, in my Opinion, long Gowns and flapp'd Hats do not seem to be a fuitable Equipage for Riding. After them came a couple of Grooms, leading a White Horfe richly accouter'd, the fame which was for his Holiness's Riding; but on that Day he was carried in a Sedan of Crimfon Velvet embroider'd with Gold, which was follow'd by a Litter in the fame Tafte, and by a magnificent Coach drawn by fix dapple grey Horfes. On the Sides of the Pope's Chair march'd two Files of the Hundred Swiss, and the Light-Horfe clos'd the March. In this Manner did the Pope make his Entry to the Vatican Palace.

The next Day, which was Holy Thursday, I defir'd Cardinal Gualtieri to get me a Place where I might fee the Ceremonies of that Grand Day; and his Eminency was fo good as to gratify my Wish. When I arriv'd at the Church, the Pope was already in his Chapel, feated on a Throne erected on the Right Side of the Altar, with a Cardinal on each Side of him, who, I obferv'd, fat upon Stools. The Conftable Colonna stood near the Pope, with a drawn Sword in his Hand. As foon as the Mafs was ended, the holy Father defcended from his Throne, and plac'd himfelf in a Chair of State which was of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold: Eight Men of the Pope's Livery rais'd the Chair upon their Shoulders, and carry'd it in that Manner to the Gallery which is over the Portico of St. Peter's Church. The Pope was preceded by his Houfhold, and by all the Cardinals, who walk'd two and two, in the midst of a couple of Files of the Hundred Swiss. All St. Peter's Square, and the Streets leading to it, were full

of

of People: His Holiness's Light-Horfe and Gendarmery were also there, together with the Foot-Guards, all drawn up in Order of Battle, Iwith their Officers at their Head. As foon as his Holiness appear'd, there was a Flourish of the Kettle-Drums and Trumpets, which was quickly fucceeded with a profound Silence. During this the Pope order'd a Cardinal to read the Bull of Excommunication and Anathema, against Heretics, Schifmatics, Pagans, and all others, that did not pay due Obedience to the Holy See, or with-held its Eftates; in fhort, against all those that lead irregular Lives. While this Bull was reading, the Pope held a Wax Taper, or rather a Torch, lighted, and as foon as the Cardinal had done reading it, the Pope rofe, that is to fay, the Eight Men who carry'd him lifted him up a little higher, and then his Holinefs with a loud Voice pronounc'd the Excommunication, which done he threw the Torch out of his Hand into the Square, as a Symbol of the Thunder of the Church; and in a few Moments after, the Pope took off the said Excommunication, on Condition, nevertheless, that the Perfons anathematis'd would repent and do public Penance for their Errors. Then he gave his Bleffing to all that were present, and to the whole City of Rome in general, by turning himself about towards the Three other Parts of the Town. At the fame Time all the Cannon of the Castle of St. Angelo were fir'd, and all the Bells of the City were rung, which was accompany'd with the Sound of the Trumpets, Kettle-Drums, and other Drums of the Soldiery, that were pofted in St. Peter's Square. During this, his Holiness was carry'd back into his Chapel, where the Tiara which he had wore

1

during the whole Ceremony, was taken off, and then he went up to the Altar, where he took the Holy Sacrament and carry'd it with great Devotion to a magnificent Sepulchre, which had been built in the little Chapel. After this Ceremony, the Pope retir'd to put on his ordinary Habit, and then went, attended by the Cardinals, into a Room, where Thirteen Priefts of different Nations being plac'd all in a Row, drefs'd in long White Robes, his Holinefs wafh'd their Feet, and gave to each a Medal and a Nofegay of Flowers. This Ceremony being ended, the Pope, follow'd by thofe Thirteen Priests, went into a fecond Room, where was a Table very neatly spread, at which the Priests fat down, and were ferv'd by the Pope and the Cardinals. The Chevalier de St. George and his Princess. were prefent at this Ceremony, with whom the Pope had fome Conversation; and when his Holinefs left them, he faid, I have been washing of Feet, I am going now to wash Hands at the fame Time he prefented the Water for that Purpose to the Thirteen Clergymen whom he had attended during the Dinner.

When the Pope was retir'd, the Cardinals went into a great Room, where they found a Table sumptuously spread. At Night the Pope and the Sacred College affifted at the Miferere, which was fung in the great Chapel with Inftrumental Mufic.

Upon Easter-Day the Pope was present at High-Mafs, with all the Cardinals; after which his Holinefs, drefs'd in his Pontificalibus and the Tiara on his Head, was carry'd in the fame Manner as upon Holy Thursday, to the Gallery which fronts St. Peter's Square, where the Soldiers were drawn up in Batallia, and the People

on

on their Knees to receive the Pope's Benediction; which was no fooner given, than there was a general Discharge of all the Artillery from the Caftle of St. Angelo: Then the Pope retir'd to his Palace, and each of the Cardinals to his refpective Habitation. Thus ended the Ceremonies of the Holy Week, during which I observ'd, that the Churches were always fo throng'd, that the People were ready to be ftifled: Yet I believe that the Italians frequent the Churches during this holy Seafon, more for the fake of hearing the excellent Mufic that is perform'd in them, than from any Motive of Religion.

Immediately after the Holy Week was ended, I fet out Poft from Rome with feveral Foreigners that had the fame Curiofity as myself, to see the famous City of NAPLES. This City, which is the Metropolis of a Kingdom of the fame Name, ftands on the Brink of the Sea, where it forms a Bafin, which the Town encompaffes in Form of a Half Moon: From thence it rifes like an Amphitheatre, towards Hills which are cover'd with Vineyards and delightful Gardens, from whence is the finest Profpect that can be imagin'd. Upon one of thefe Hills is the famous Caftle of St. Elmo, built by Charles V. which is a Fortress that commands the whole City.

Naples is the See of an Archbishop, whose Metropolitan Church is dedicated to St. Januarius; and in this Church is preferv'd the Head of that Saint, and fome Drops of his Blood in a Glafs Phyal. We are affur'd, that every Year, upon that Saint's Festival, the very Inftant that they put the Phyal to the Head, the Blood, which was before condens'd, turns Liquid. All the People of Naples are Eye-Witneffes of this Mi

racle,