the poor at the gates of the convents. The effect of this in the first instance is melancholy. The state of the poor is gradually become worse, and in Palermo the number of mendicants has visibly increas ed within the last twenty years. Some time since, their distresses attracted the attention of the government; and a large and extensive establishment, in imitation of our English workhouses, was instituted to remedy the evil. The building, though not yet completed to the extent of the design, would do honour to any state. The interior regulations are, I am told, efficient and judicious. The inmates amount to several hundreds, and their employment is chiefly in the different processes of the manufactories of silk. But however well intended, this institution is found entirely inadequate to remove the distresses of the poor; and in proportion as the Church continues to decline, the number of beggars must increase, until that salutary change in the habits of the lower orders, of which the cessation of their gratuitous supply is the necessary forerunner, shall have taken place. The Sicilian gentry, particularly the females, have the reputation of being very charitable. The whole nation, indeed, seems to have a great share of benevolence. He must be strongly prejudiced, indeed, who would not allow the conduct of this people, to one another, notwithstanding the general distrust that individual. izes them so much, to be both respectable and kindly. p. 26.

The charities of monastic institutions were in truth none of their lightest evils. They encouraged idleness, and the vices to which it gives rise, among the flock as well as among the pastors. All the accounts of these establishments in the southern parts of Europe, but especially of Spain, concur in presenting a picture equally disfigured by the extortions practised upon the industry, and the contributions levied on the wealth, of some classes, and the bounty heedlessly lavished to the encouragement of idleness, and perpetuating of poverty, in the other orders of the community. The excellent work of Mr Townsend, is peculiarly copious in its details upon this subject, and distinguished by the soundness of the author's reflections. The remark of Mr Galt, upon the charitable disposition of the Sicilians, is applicable to the Neapolitans also, as we had an opportunity of showing in the account of Mr Eustace's travels. We are unwilling to give invidious explanations of a propensity always amiable, whatever be its origin; yet we cannot avoid observing that much of the munificence exhibited towards objects of distress in those countries, resolves itself into the same motive which leads to the payment of money for masses and indulgences, and the compliance with all the other requisitions of the church. It is easier to pay well, than to act well: A man is very will. ing to purchase forgiveness of sins without amendment of life; and he thinks that, by bestowing money in alms, he sets off a

good action against his faults, if he does not actually acquire a right to commit them. The church, indeed, grants no absolution, without the condition of repentance and reformation; whence the Romanists argue, that no danger can arise to the sense of moral duty, from the practice of absolving and confessing, because the condition being involved, the sinner knows that it depends on his subsequent conduct to make the ceremony which has been performed a mere empty form, or a passport to salvation. This argument, however, only proves, (even admitting that no mistakes are practically committed by the ignorant flock), that absolution does not give a carte blanche to sin anew; for its effects may have been to produce the first sin, by holding out the promise of security, though coupled with the condition. But, be this as it may, the money expended in charities, is invested upon a more refined view of ultimate gain; for the virtue of such deeds in redeeming from the penal consequences of transgression, is considered as undeniable by many whom the notions of indulgencies and absolutions cannot blind. It is to be feared that a little of this spirit has of late years got in amongst us, even in this Protestant country. The reformation of morals in the upper ranks of society, we fear, has not kept pace with the extraordinary increase of our charitable exertions. A sort of enthusiasm has in many quarters sprung up in the stead of more sober religion, with little visible effect upon the demeanour of its professors. It is an observance, we fear, substituted for good works; and comes under the general description of cheap and easy commutations of which we have been speaking. There is no wholesomeness in the moral constitution of persons who hold that either by paying their money to charities, or spending their time in the outward offices of religion, or absorbing their faculties in trances and rhapsodies, they can purchase a right to devote the rest of their wealth, or days or gifts, in a way inconsistent with plain, honest, upright principles. It is sometimes a little provoking to see the perfect selfsatisfaction of such persons; and to be desired to believe them innocent, because they seem so happy and cheerful, and enjoy minds so much at ease. This is exactly what we complain of; they are more easy and happy than they have any right to be. They have formed a substitute for self-controul, and plain dealing; and the lives of indulgence, which they lead in themselves, and of shuffling towards their neighbours, sufficient to awaken the consciences of any unsophistocated man, never give them a moment's concern, in the happy state of delusion into which they have contrived to reason or intoxicate themselves. But to return from this sermon.

--

The population of Sicily is proved by the parochial registers to be greatly on the increase; and there are plain indications, says our author, of something like the formation, in Palermo, of that comfortable middle class which is the best proof of a prosperous and free community. The difficulties of the nobles have reduced their influence in a prodigious degree, and occasioned frequent changes of property. From these, Mr Galt infers, that the condition of the peasantry is improved, a proposition to our minds extremely doubtful. When an estate is sold, he thinks that the cultivators, no longer labouring for those who had an hereditary dominion over them, acquire something more of independence and comfort. Now, we should have drawn the very opposite conclusion; and argued that, the legal privileges remaining the same, (as he admits they do), the exchange of an hereditary and ancient connexion of lord and vassal, for the yoke of a stranger, was a transition from a mild and parental influence, to a harsh and alien dominion. Indeed, our author admits, that the peasantry having recourse to clandestine shifts, in order to elude the exactions of their lords, are of necessity a cunning and equivocating race.' The abolition of those seignorial privileges, is clearly an event not far distant, if indeed steps have not already been taken to accomplish it.

Of these nobles a very unfavourable account is given. Their time is for the most part spent in idleness and unprofitable amusement; most of them are in debt; many in absolute beg gary. An adventure of our author may serve to illustrate the last observation.

• One evening, as I happened to be returning home, I fell in with a procession of monks and soldiers bearing an image of St Francis ; and, not having seen any thing of the kind before, I went with the erowd into a church towards which the procession was moving. While reckoning the number of the friars as they entered, and having reached a hundred and seventy, all excellent subjects for soldiers, a well-dressed gentleman came up to me, and, bowing, pointed to some of the ornaments as objects worthy of a stranger's curiosity; but, perceiving me shy of entering into conversation with him, and the procession entering the church at the same time, he walked, or was forced by the current of the crowd, away.

The idol being placed near the high altar, the crowd began to chaunt a hymn. As they all fell on their knees, and my tight prejudices and small clothes would not permit me to do the same, I turned into one of the side chapels, and, leaning against the railing of the altar, began to speculate on the spectacle before me, when the stranger again accosted me. Somewhat disconcerted by the interruption, and by the forwardness of the man, I abruptly quitted my place. But, before I had moved two steps, he approached, and,

bowing, said, I am the Baron M, and my palace is just opposite. At this instant the worshippers rose, and the procession turning to go out at one of the side doors near where we were standing, before I could retreat, I found myself involved in the crowd, and obliged to go with the stream. When I reached the street, I found the stranger again at my side. This is very extraordinary, thought I; and, without seeming to notice him, walked away. He followed; and when we had got out of the nucleus of the throng, he seized me firmly by the arm, and drew me aside. Enraged and alarmed at this mysterious treatment, I shook him fiercely from me. For about the time that one might count twenty, he seemed to hesitate; and then, suddenly coming back, repeated, in Italian, with considerable energy, "I, I am the Baron M. This is my palace; but I have nothing to eat!" I looked at the building, near the gate of which we were then standing: it was old and ruinous : there was no lamp in the court-yard, and only a faint light glimmering in one of the windows.

Mistaking my silence and astonishment, he pulled out his watch, and, placing it in my hand, entreated me to give him some money. As I had no disposition to become a pawnbroker, I returned it with some expressions of surprise, and took out my purse with the intention of giving it to him, for it only contained two or three small pieces. But here all the solemnity of the adventure terminated. He snatched it out of my hand, and, emptying the contents into his own, returned it; and, wishing me good night, ran into the gateway.' p. 37, 38.

In all probability, the poverty of many of the nobility, and the increasing trade of the towns, which foreigners are sure to push when the peace has rendered all men anxious to find new channels for their capital and skill, will, before many years have elapsed, bring about such a reduction of the aristocracy, as cannot fail to benefit the lower orders; and, by the reaction of increased cultivation, again to augment the commerce of the island.

The account given of the Court is considerably more favourable to the royal family than we fear the facts warrant. Mr Galt seems filled with pity for the queen, and good will towards the king, and tenderness to the princes. No recollections appear to obtrude themselves, of those atrocious scenes too deeply engraven in the memory of Englishmen ever to be forgotten, as long as any regard is left for national character ;-scenes not the less painful to reflect upon, that they involved in their guilt one of our greatest heroes. With all his prepossessions, however, in favour of this family, he roundly enough admits the Court to have been a very pretty scene of intrigue. Every thing about it,' he says, was managed with the dexterity and provi⚫dence of intrigue and conspiracy. All was in masque; and

truth and honour and justice, when they appeared in their ⚫ native fairness, were regarded, like every thing else, only as painted artifices, and treated as such.'

Our author left Palermo, and made a tour in the Val di Mazzara, the western district of the island. Mont Realè is the first stage; and he mentions it as a place grievously infested with clergy.' He derives wonderful satisfaction, however, from the consideration, that though they have had the assurance lately to begin the construction of another large church, it is not likely they will have the felicity to finish it.' The want of roads from Palermo through the interior, had been a serious impediment to commerce and agriculture; but it seems they are now going on with some activity. He concurs with all other writers in describing the agriculture as in a very low state. He saw in one field eleven ploughs, driven by as many men, all in a line one after another, and scarcely, by their united efforts, making more impression than an English harrow would have done. The instrument used, however, is the good old plough of their ancestors; consecrated in the hearts of their children by its venerable antiquity; embellished by every endearing association; and not to be rashly touched by the profane hands of daring innovators. This noble monument of the wisdom of past times, which has stood the test of so many centuries, not being, from its construction, able to penetrate the ground, and being in truth incapable of ploughing, whatever its other qualities may be, the harvest, in the most fertile district of Europe, scarcely supplies a scanty population; although it might easily, says Mr Galt, and he speaks much within bounds, feed three times the number.

At Trapani Mr Galt enters into some details respecting certain wonderful artists now living there. Their merits have, however, not reached these northern regions. Erranti is at the head of them; and is described as a first-rate painter. He likewise celebrates a sculptor called Tipa; and an architect caned Amico. With respect to singers, he happened to mention, among the natives, that Catalani received a salary of 50007. a winter-and found them all utterly incredulous. The prima donna of the theatre of Trepani has, it seems, 30l. a-year, and a benefit,--by which she may clear half as much more. Mr Galt is always rather free in his remarks on artists: and here hetkes occasion to inveigh against the bad taste of those in our own country, in their designs for sculpture; and objects, especially, to their introduction of allegorical and angelical personages. Her vels to think of the impression which our Britannias, Fame, and other horrible images,' will make on posterity; and is

VOL. XXIII. NO. 45.

D