little amusement to persons not fond of the ballet. They however received rounds of applause. The five tiers of boxes, elegantly hung with crimson tapestry, were filled with fashionable people, and the pit was crowded with ladies and gentlemen. No person is allowed to go in other than a full dress. The whole play was performed in the Italian language, and nine-tenths of the audience were probably just as ignorant of the plot and sentiment, if it possessed either, when they left as when they entered. I could not but think how keenly Addison, and Johnson, and Garrick would have lashed the prevailing taste of the age, and the degradation of the stage, could they have been present, to listen to the emasculated tones of opera heroes, or to witness the pirouettes of Neapolitan bellerine.

The English opera is little more than a version of the Italian, all the absurdities and frivolities of the latter being translated into the former. Nonsense in plain English is, if possible, more ridiculous, than when veiled in a language not understood. We saw Braham and Miss Paton. The musical talents of the former have, in my humble opinion, been overrated, or he was not in voice. Miss Paton is a fine looking woman, but is wanting in animation. She is, however, accounted "a star," has great compass of voice, and her performances are received with much eclat.

Haymarket is a small, neat theatre, opposite the Italian Opera House. The company possess more talent than any one we have seen since landing. Liston's comic humour is inimitable. In the character of the landlord, in the new piece of" Quite Correct," which possesses great merits, save that it is a little too broad, he keeps the house in a roar. Madame Vestris is pretty, and has an air of sprightliness. She is a great favourite; but her reputation perhaps is not unlike that of Miss Foote.

Our observations thus far have not given us a very exalted opinion of the English stage. Due allowance should be made, however, for the unfavourable season of the year. Every body is said to be out of town, although enough seemed yet to be left. Drury-Lane and Covent-Garden, the two principal theatres, are closed. Their companies are said to be good, and our first impressions may hereafter be corrected.

Astley's Amphitheatre is partly dramatic and partly equestrian. It is a handsome, convenient building, near West

minster Bridge. "The burning of Moscow"-the show for the night is a grand spectacle. Napoleon is not so much of a caricature, as it might be supposed John Bull would make him. Parts of his character are just, and go off with applause. The feats in horsemanship are nothing extraordinary. A modern Hercules, passing under the name of "Alcides," gave exhibitions of his strength, and performed some of the twelve labours of his Theban prototype.

We were at Vauxhall Garden on his majesty's birth-night, when a great gala was given. "The King, our patron's natal day," blazed in capitals, composed of coloured lamps, over one of the principal walks. I forget how many hundred thousand lights were fancifully displayed among the trees, and how many alcoves and grots, they disclosed to the admiring gaze of the spectator. Eagles spouted water, and dragon's fire, in a shower of which "a young American," who was said to be old Mr. Blackmore, ascended by dint of a tight-rope to the skies. All London was present on this occasion. Much more order was observed than could have been expected in such a promiscuous throng. The grounds of Vauxhall, upon the right bank of the Thames, above Westminster Hall, are spacious and beautiful, being laid out with taste, adorned with trees, and forming an agreeable promenade.

Thus have I attempted to sketch some of the more prominent features of London, examined with as much attention, as a stay of only two weeks would permit. Other localities and topics, connected with an overgrown and unwieldy metropolis, are reserved for future visits.

LETTER XII.

RIDE TO CAMBRIDGE-DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY AND UNI

VERSITY.

August, 1825.--ON the 18th we left London for Cambridge, fifty miles in a north-easterly direction from the metropolis. An intelligent and agreeable friend from Phila delphia, who had just completed his travels on the continent, joined us in a tour through the north of England and Scotland. Our exit from the capital was by the Newington road,

which for a long distance presented a full view of the dome of St. Paul's and the hundred spires and turrets of London, upon which we turned and gazed, as the city receded, until it was lost in a dense atmosphere. The suburbs in this direction are not interesting. There are extensive brick-yards in the environs, where immense quantities of tile and other materials for building are manufactured. The air was filled with coal-smoke, proceeding from the kilns, rendered more disagreeable by a rainy morning. An hour's ride, however, carried us beyond the choked atmosphere of the town, and brought us into a region of bright skies, pure breezes, and scenes of rural quiet-a change, which at this season, was peculiarly grateful to the senses, dissipating languor, and giving tone to the mind as well as to the body..

Passing Tottenham Cross, we entered a rich agricultural country, possessing the usual charms of English landscape. Our route was on the northern road, along the new river, whence London is supplied with water, and by Waltham Cross, a curious monument erected by Edward I. in commemoration of his queen.

Our departure from London, as well as our entrance, led through places consecrated by the feats of Cowper's hero, the immortal Gilpin, whose race-ground has furnished us more amusement than any course which has been observed since landing, not excepting these where golden cups may have been won by the studs of noblemen. The village of " Ware" derives its principal interest from this facetious ballad, and from an account given by the coachman of a mammoth bed, at the Saracen's Head, which is sufficiently capacious to ac commodate twenty persons of a night. Near this village, we met lady. Salisbury in her coach, with two postillions, and a brace of outriders, all in livery. She is said to be a second Dian Vernon in horsemanship, riding full-speed and leaping the most formidable barriers at the stag-hunts, in which she is peculiarly fond of participating. The English ladies generally ride on horseback with boldness, dexterity, and gracefulness. Their beaver hats, exactly resembling those of the other sex; their high collars and black cravats, tied before in the style of a fashionable gentleman; with the appendage of a long whip, give them somewhat of a masculine appearance. One of the causes, however, of rosy cheeks and healthy complexions may be found in these equestrian exercises, and

in the habit of walking much more than is common in the United States.

Midway between London and Cambridge, the aspect of the country suddenly changes to naked swells of land, resembling the Irish scenery, except that the surface is less verdant. There are no fences of any kind for miles. Hundreds of poor women and children were seen gleaning the fields, picking up an ear at a time, and filling their aprons. The scene brought to mind a beautiful passage in the Seasons; and we could not but unite in the humane wish of the poet, that the reaper might be merciful in gathering the harvest, leaving a liberal portion to compensate the toils of these industrious females. A gentleman in the coach informed me, that they sometimes collect enough to make five or six bushels of wheat; and that whole families are supplied with bread for the year by the fruits of such patient labour. It is accounted disreputable and odious, on the part of the wealthy proprietor of the field, to be rigid and niggardly in his directions to the reapers; and public sentiment in some measure compels him to scatter his bounty.

At 4 o'clock we reached Cambridge. With all its air of venerable antiquity, and with all its modern improvements, the town is not calculated at the first glance to produce a very favourable impression; and little did we suppose on entering, that it would be left with so much regret. The streets are irregular, and the general aspect of the buildings is mean. Some of the public edifices, however, are magnificent, and others present a still stronger claim to attention, from being associated with one of the most celebrated seats of learning in the world. By a curious coincidence, our arrival was on the anniversary of my visit to Dartmouth the summer previous; and the recollection of pleasures there enjoyed in the society of its scholars, and the circle of my friends, heightened the gratification derived from rambling through the classie retreats of a kindred institution--the fountain whenee the former drew much of its science, literature, and taste. Upon the banks of Cam, I found many interesting memorials of those authors, whose works had afforded me so much delight upon the wilder and more romantic banks of the Connecticut. Newton, Bacon, Milton, Dryden, Gray, and a host of others!" Who would not venerate the Alma Mater of such sons?who would not love the haunts of their early meditations, and the academic shades which their footsteps have hallowed?

But my feelings are in advance of my story:-An obliging friend in New-York, among his many favours gave me an introduction to a Fellow of one of the Colleges, requesting him to make me acquainted with the Professor of Chemistry. The letter was enclosed with my card, and despatched by a servant, who in a few minutes returned with a report, that "the gentleman had left off tutoring, and had been out of town two months." As we had no other letter to this place, such intelligence created not a little disappointment and regret, and for a time it was feared, that our visit would, in great measure, be lost. Thanks to that generous hospitality and that spirit of liberality and kindness, which can overlook the forms of etiquette, and enter warmly into the feelings of strangers, our desponding anticipations were far from being realized; and I rejoice at an incident, which only served to increase my respect and esteem for gentlemen, with whom we afterwards became acquainted.

As a last resort, and in violation of the rigid rules of politeness, the letter was enclosed to the gentleman indirectly named in it, with an apology for such a procedure. A friendly note, containing an invitation to breakfast next morning, was soon received in reply. Although favours of this description were neither sought nor expected, the courtesy. was too frank and cordial to be declined. Such an introduction, brief and indirect as it was, led to a series of attentions, and to personal acquaintances, which will be long remembered with gratitude and pleasure. An instance so strongly marked and unequivocal in its character, in an institution too whose officers might be supposed to feel all the pride of opinion, satisfied me that the more liberal portion of the people of England entertain no other than the kindest feelings towards the United States, and earnestly desire that no political occurrences may hereafter interrupt the friendly relations between the two countries.

Not restricting his civilities to the formality of a breakfast and an introduction to his family, the Professor of Chemistry devoted the whole day and evening to us, doing every thing which unostentatious kindness could suggest, to render our visit profitable and pleasant. Our first call was at the Philosophical and Literary Rooms, which are spacious and commodious, finished in handsome style, and furnished with newspapers periodical journals, and a handsome library for the use of the Society, whose members here hold their stated