the channel is over-arched by willows, growing upon its borders. Its current is in many places choked with rushes and other aquatic plants, among which Matthews, the intimate friend of Lord Byron, was entangled and drowned, while in the act of bathing. LETTER XIII. DEPARTURE FROM CAMBRIDGE-HUNTINGDON-BIRTH-PLACE OF CROMWELL-STAMFORD-BURLEIGH HOUSE-LEICESTER -DERBY. August, 1825.-On the afternoon of the 20th, our ride was continued to Stamford, twenty-six miles from Cambridge. In leaving the seat of the University, we crossed a handsome bridge over the Cam, on each side of which the stream was covered with large boats, employed in navigation between this place and Lynn, in the county of Norfolk. In one of the public squares was observed the Conduit, erected by the celebrated Hobson,* as a watering-place for his horses. A few miles from Cambridge, the road leads through the little village of St. Ives, celebrated in legendary lore, and still more renowned, as having been for some time the residence of Oliver Cromwell, the Protector, where he is said to have occasionally preached and exhorted. Near the village we crossed the river Ouse, which is a comparatively large and navigable stream, rising in Northamptonshire, and winding its way in a north-easterly direction, through extensive fens upon its borders. Although it is not in its appearance a very poetical river, it is not "unknown to song." Cowper's muse found a charm in its winding and sedgy margin. Huntingdon, sixteen miles from Cambridge, is a large and well built town. It is celebrated as the birth-place of Oliver Cromwell, traces of whose influence have been observed by us at almost every mile since landing in Ireland. He appears to have possessed the power of ubiquity. This old Cantabrian, (blessed be his memory,) was the inventor of Hackney-Coaches and Livery-Stables. For an account of his services, and an explanation of the proverb, which originated with him, see Milton's miscellaneous poems, and the 509th number of the Spectator. Although we could feel but little respect for the memory of a man, in whose character were united the bigot, hypocrite, and tyrant; whose principles could not withstand the allurements of ambition; and who added to all the vices of a despot, treachery to the cause he had espoused-yet curiosity led us to search for the place of his birth. The house in which he was born is now entirely demolished, and a handsome mansion erected upon the site. A person pointed out to us precisely where the old building stood. One section of it, denominated "Cromwell's Room," containing some of the original furniture, was preserved till within a year or two, when the last vestige was removed to make room for the modern structure. Huntingdon was for several years the residence of the poet Cowper-a spirit forming a perfect contrast to the Protector. He lived with his friends, the Urwins, who are a respectable family, and will long be remembered with gratitude for their kindness towards an unfortunate bard, whose subsequent fame has given celebrity and interest to the house, which sheltered his penury. The period of his residence in this town was just after his escape from a delirious trance of many years, when he commenced, as it were, a new existence. His insanity for so large a proportion of his life, and the successful exercise of his talents in acquiring reputation after his recovery, may be reckoned among the most remarkable phenomena in the whole history of mind. The charms of nature seem to have opened upon him afresh, as he awoke from the dream of years, and he enjoyed all the novelty and all the enthusiasm of childhood without any of its weaknesses. He is said to have been perfectly happy, while at Huntingdon; grateful to Heaven for the renovation of his intellectual powers, and to his friends for their liberal favours. His resuscitated relish for the enjoyment of natural scenery, as well as of social pleasures, was insatiable. He was in the field morning and evening and noon-day, taking his solitary walk, and catching with his pencil every shifting tint, which the changing seasons presented. The pleasures of our ride this afternoon were greatly increased, by the politeness of an intelligent gentleman from London, who was familiar with the road, and who directed our attention to whatever was most worthy of notice, not only on this route, but in our way towards the north. He commenced at Cambridge with an act of courtesy, which is He was in possession unusual among strangers in a coach. of the best seat, which he voluntarily surrendered, remarking that he perceived three of us were travelling in company, and would probably wish to sit together-he would therefore take a seat behind. Such an instance of urbanity prepossessed us in his favour, and a subsequent acquaintance confirmed the opinion. Among other favours, he gave us a letter to one of the most interesting parts of Yorkshire. This little circumstance is recorded, as one among a thousand proofs of the open hospitality of the people of England, which is a prominent trait in their characters, at least so far as our observation has extended. We arrived at Stamford, at 8 o'clock in the evening. This is an old town, and appears to be rather on the decline. It formerly contained fifteen churches, only half a dozen of which still remain. It is situated on both sides of the river Welland, over which there is an antique stone bridge. The stream is connected with a canal, and affords great facilities of inland navigation. On Monday morning we walked a mile and a half to Burleigh House, which was erected by Cecil, Lord Burleigh, the minister of Elizabeth and Lord Treasurer of England. It is at present the seat of the Marquis of Exeter, who is a young man of thirty, with a feeble constitution, and not destined, so far as I could learn, to add much to the fame of his ancestors. The Park and grounds about his seat are beautiful, varied by gentle undulations, and covered with groves and copses of oak intermingled with other large forest trees. Vistas and umbrageous walks open on the eye in all directions. The lodge is near Stamford, and our rambles extended over nearly the whole domain. In the centre, spreading in front of the house, is a pretty sheet of water, winding through the grounds, till it is lost among the trees. A handsome bridge has been thrown across it, which contributes largely to the beauty of the prospect. The water was covered by a flock of swans, which were feeding along the green margin, and playing on the glassy wave. The exterior of the house is not striking. It is a mixed specimen of architecture, exhibiting no less than three orders. A want of simplicity destroys the effect, both as to grandeur and beauty. The summit is crowned by half a dozen turrets, surrounding an old fashioned pyramidal steeple rising from the Chapel. At a distance, these grey tow ers, seen from among the trees, present a fine view, the charms of which gradually vanish, as you approach the naked court-yard, and examine the proportions of the building. The interior is not calculated to increase the admiration of the visitant. We were ushered into a spacious hall, with a lofty arched ceiling, of Saxon architecture. The walls are hung with ancient tapestry, wrought into a variety of historical pictures. In niches and on pedestals along the basement, are numerous statues and busts, some with broken limbs, and others with smutty faces. The furniture and decorations of the hall, from Cupid riding on a dolphin, to the hobby-horse and other machines for exercise, are contemptible in comparison with those at Eaton Hall and Chatsworth. A female portress of eighteen conducted us through the Chapel, billiard-room, hall for dancing, and a long suite of other apartments, appropriated to the purposes of sleeping, dressing, eating, drinking, and music, which constitute the business, and make up the vicissitudes of fashionable life. The library and study were not shown to us. One of the rooms contained an extensive exhibition of cattle of different breeds, well-modeled in plaster, and grouped according to their several species. It is a useful ornament, and gave us an impression that his lordship is a patron of agriculture, although our fair guide could not satisfy our inquiries upon this point. The decorations of the Chapel exhibit more taste than any other part of the house. They consist of the ten Virgins standing upon pedestals around the room. The statues are of black composition, full length, and nearly as large as life, each holding a lamp decorated with gold. It is a chaste and appropriate ornament. On the left of the altar, there is a sofa, one end of which goes by the name of Elizabeth's Seat, being the place where she used to sit, in her frequent visits to the residence of the Lord Treasurer, which was a favourite retreat. The cabinet of jewels, which we were permitted to inspect, contains a great variety of ornaments, which belonged to the Virgin Queen, and to other distinguished personages. Among the rest is a beautiful little sword, worn as an ornament by Mary Queen of Scots, which excited more interest than the gems of her jealous and persecuting rival. Burleigh House is enriched with an extensive collection of paintings, some of them by the great masters of every age; but they are scattered amidst a multitude of others, of an inferior kind, which hardly repay an examination. The On our return from Burleigh House, we called at the Church of St. Martin's, in the village of Stamford, where are the vaults of the Cecil family. The Lord Treasurer lies in state, under a canopy in the chancel; and his family are grouped around him, the children kneeling in niches upon the wall. The monument to the memory of John Cecil and his wife, denominated "the travelling lord and lady," is a lofty pyramid of white marble, reaching to the ceiling of the church, and placed against a black ground work, so as to give the appearance of casting a shadow. It was executed by an eminent artist in Italy under the superintendence of Cecil and his wife, while they were in that country. The ride from Stamford to Leicester, thirty miles, extends through a pleasant and fertile agricultural district, exhibiting many beautiful fields of tillage and pasture. In the latter, numerous flocks of sheep were observed, of a larger size than we had ever seen. The cattle also were remarkably handsome and fat; furnishing the strongest evidence of a rich grazing country. It abounds with extensive dairies, and the treasures of the fleece. We reached Leicester at 8 o'clock in the evening, and immediately called on a fellow-passenger in the Corinthian, who resides at this place. He devoted his whole time and attention to us, during our stay, and did every thing in his power to render the visit agreeable. He first conducted us to the top of a five-story warehouse, for the purpose of giving us a bird's-eye view of the town and its vicinity. The prospect from such a height was wide, varied, and delightful. We looked down upon Leicester, as upon a picture, tracing with the eye its streets, its numerous spires and turrets, its public edifices, the great avenues leading to it from all directions, the meanders of the river Soar, and the rural environs, which extend far on every side in gentle and verdant undulations. It is a large, well built place, with a population of about 25,000. |