modations were obtained at the Buck's Head. This hotel had been appointed as a place of general rendezvous. Our Oxford companions had arrived before us; as had also our trunks, which had been forwarded from Corran Ferry. The remainder of the evening passed pleasantly in recounting our mutual adventures since parting in the Highlands.

On the following morning we commenced an examination of Glasgow by paying a visit to the Cathedral, which stands on an eminence in the north-eastern part of the town. It is one of the few venerable relics of antiquity, which escaped the furious zeal of Knox and his corps of reformers, who levelled all the ecclesiastical institutions then existing, however precious as specimens of the arts. This stately edifice, which is of the Gothic order, and was founded in the 12th century, is 320 feet long, 60 wide, and the walls 90 feet high, above which a steeple rises to the height of 225 feet from the ground. Its pillars and other ornaments are massive in proportion to its dimensions. Its vaulted roof is magnificent, and the stained windows give the interior an air of grandeur and solemnity.

A bright, pleasant morning induced us to climb with much difficulty, (a part of the way by a perpendicular ladder,) to the battlements of the western tower, for the purpose of taking a bird's-eye view of Glasgow. Notwithstanding occasional interruptions by the volumes of smoke rising from a town, which is the second in size in Great-Britain, and which has a population of 160,000, with a great number of manufactories, our object was accomplished, and a correct idea of the outlines obtained. In its general aspect, in its complexion, in the construction of its streets, as well as in the busy, bustling commercial spirit which every where prevails, Glasgow much more nearly resembles London or Liverpool than Edinburgh, or any other Scottish town that has met our observation. It is eligibly situated on the north bank of the Clyde, rising by a gentle declivity from the river, and extending a mile and a half or two miles along its margin, with which the principal streets run parallel. Numerous hills, villages, and a picturesque country form the environs. The buildings are all stone, obtained from a quarry in the heart of the town, and are substantially as well as neatly constructed, being generally three and four stories high. Some of the streets and squares are magnificent, exhibiting like the new part of Edinburgh not a single diminutive or mean structure.

It possesses, however, little of that classical ornament, elegance, and splendour which characterize the metropolis of the country.

The Clyde is a fine river, nearly equalling the Thames in breadth, and sweeping down with a bold, rapid current, though of moderate depth. Its waters are turbid and much discoloured opposite the town, which greatly injure its appearance. It passes under three bridges, connecting Glasgow with Gorbals on the southern shore. None of these structures can boast of much grandeur or elegance. The upper one is a rude fabric of wood, designed for foot passengers; and the other two are substantially built of stone. A handsome bridge was commenced many years ago; but a sudden flood swept it away before it was completed, and the heavy loss discouraged a renewal of the undertaking.

Having fixed the general features of the town in our minds, we descended from our aerial station, and entered upon an examination more in detail. The Royal Infirmary, standing at the head of High-street, near the Cathedral, is a fine building, and from its position appears to great advantage. It is surmounted by a dome, which is not more ornamental than useful in lighting the institution. There are several handsome churches in this vicinity, the lofty spires of which give an imposing aspect to the town.

At twelve o'clock we paid a visit to the College, though under the disadvantage of strangers, without a letter of introduction. In age, this institution ranks next to that of St. Andrew's, having been founded as early as the middle of the 15th century. The edifice stands on High-street, is two stories high, and three hundred feet in front, but does not show to any advantage, being scarcely distinguishable from the other buildings in the block. It is ornamented with antique towers upon the corners, which do not rise even so high as the walls. The gate-ways lead into the courts, which have nothing to recommend them in point of beauty. Round these are the lecture rooms, the houses of the officers, and the apartments of the scholars.

The University has at present a library of 40,000 volumes, twenty Professors, and from 12 to 1500 students, several of whom were observed treading the courts with sophomoric.✩ dignity, clad in an odd red gown or cloak, which is the collegiate dress, but which appears rather as an emblem of Mars than of Minerva. This institution has produced its full share

of scholars, who have arrived at eminence in the several departments of science and literature. Among these may be mentioned Simpson, the mathematician, and Reid, author of an ingenious system of metaphysics. Sir John Moore, who fell in the wars of the Peninsula, and whose fame has been perpetuated by the beautiful elegy of Wolfe, was a native of Glasgow, and received his education at this school. A colossal statue of him adorns one of the public squares.

At the extremity of the inner court, and on the hither side of a garden of ten acres, is the Hunterian Museum, which was bequeathed to the University by the late Dr. William Hunter, with a donation of £8000, to defray the expenses of a building for its reception. The edifice is spacious and handsome, being two stories besides the basement, with rotundas on both floors, lighted by a dome. From the windows there is a charming view into the garden, planted with shrubbery and trees, and designed as a promenade for the students. The rooms are ornamented with a suitable proportion of statuary and painting, among which are the likenesses of the founder, taken from a cast after death, a head of Newton, and a portrait of Harvey, who discovered the circulation of the blood. In the hall is suspended the old banner used by the Covenanters in the battle at Bothwell Bridge.

The articles of the Museum are numerous and in a fine state of preservation. One of the apartments in the lower story is appropriated almost entirely to the anatomical preparations, which belonged to the founder, and which are extremely valuable. To these are added the extensive collections in conchology and entomology, made by the late Dr. Fothergill. The cabinet of coins is said to be the most complete in Great-Britain; and the mineralogical specimens are both rich and well arranged. There is a select library in the upper story, containing many rare books and månuscripts. Among the latter are autograph letters from Gen. Washington and Dr. Franklin; as also the original subscription paper for raising a fund, to enable Dr. Priestly to prosecute his investigation of the gases.

Leaving the University, we took a turn through the Green, which is a large public square, in the south-eastern part of the city, containing 133 acres, and stretching along the right bank of the Clyde. The blocks of houses facing it are among the handsomest in the town. At one corner the new gaol and public offices are situated, presenting a magnificent

front, richly ornamented with Corinthian pillars. Near the centre of the Green stands a pillar 140 feet high, in memory of Lord Nelson. His naval victories are engraven upon the quadrangular base. It was struck by lightning soon after it was erected, and traces of the cleft are still discernible.

A walk of something more than a mile along the bank of the Clyde, by the new and beautiful Roman Catholic Church, the bridges, and quays, to the western extremity of the town, and thence back to the hotel by another route, completed our tour of observation for the day. Glasgow has no docks for its shipping. The vessels all lie side by side along the straight artificial bank of the river, in which the tide rises to the height of eight feet, permitting schooners and small brigs to ascend with cargoes. Much of the craft is employed in the coal-trade. Some of the vessels were discharging freights of cotton, sugar, and molasses. There are about fifty steam-boats belonging to this port, which are all moored at the same quay, forming a sable fleet, plying to every part of the kingdom. The first experiment in steam navigation in Europe was made upon the waters of the Clyde. In the course of our rambles through this part of the town, a street was observed which bears the name of Washington, and on which stands the Washington Hotel. Such a compliment, trifling as it may be in itself, manifests a feeling of liberality towards our country, and a respect for the character of its great benefactor.

In the evening we attended the theatre, partly for the purpose of examining the house, and partly to hear Miss Stephens sing. This edifice ranks among the most magnificent of the public buildings in Glasgow. It stands upon Queenstreet, and was erected twenty years ago, at an expense of $80,000. It is considered the most splendid of the provincial theatres. The interior is elegantly finished and furnished, being sufficiently spacious to accommodate fifteen hundred or two thousand persons, although scarcely one-fourth of that number usually attend, as the Scotch are not a playgoing people. Much taste is displayed in the scenery and embellishments of the stage. The drop-scene presents a rich view on the shores of Loch Lomond. There was a small, but genteel audience, exhibiting few peculiarities to distinguish it from a similar assemblage of persons in New-York. Miss Stephens who has made some noise in the world, and found admirers among the nobility, is pretty and possesses

musical talents above mediocrity. She was tolerably well supported by the rest of the company; but the drama for the evening the Slave"-is such an unnatural piece, as to be uninteresting, however well it may be performed.

On our return to the hotel, we had the satisfaction to find our New-England friends, who had parted with us at Loch Linnhe, safely arrived, after many hair-breadth escapes, from their excursion to the Island of Staffa. They gave frightful accounts of the terrors of the seas, and of their own adventures, upon the western coast of Scotland, at this tempestuous season. A part of their voyage among the Hebrides was performed in an open cock-boat, exposed to the united violence of winds and waves, with a crew who were willing to risk life for money, and whose native temerity was increased by liberal potations of whiskey. Wo betide the traveller, who too late finds his mistake in having committed himself to such hands.

LETTER XXVIII.

EXCURSION TO AYRSHIRE

KILMARNOCK-IRVINE--EARLY

ASSOCIATES AND FRIENDS OF ROBERT BURNS-AYR-BURNS' COTTAGE-MAUSOLEUM-KIRK ALLOWAY-BANKS OF DOON.

October, 1825.-Reserving other objects of interest in and about Glasgow for a second visit, we set out on the 14th, to make an excursion through Ayrshire. The route to Kilmarnock passes through the populous village of Gorbals, on the left bank of the Clyde; and thence to Langside, where a great battle was fought, fatal to the partisans of Mary Queen of Scots. She stood upon a neighbouring eminence, spectatress of the fight, and witnessed the defeat of her arms, on which hung her future hopes and fortunes. In retreating from the scene of action, she fell into the hands of two barbarous rustics, who were about to mow her down with their scythes, like a flower of the field; but she eluded their brutal violence, and was destined to experience a fate still more tragic.

At 10 o'clock we arrived at Kilmarnock, a large, well built town, containing a population of 10,000, chiefly employed in the manufacture of plaids and carpets. Many new buildings are going up, and it appears to be a thriving