of these apartments the Prince Regent, Alexander of Russia, the King of Prussia, and the other great characters accompanying them, dined during their visit to Oxford in 1814.

A spiral flight of steps ascends to the dome, which we climbed, and had a fine view of the city just before sunset of a bright evening. One of the students accompanied us, and designated the localities of Oxford, which is beautifully situated at the junction of the Isis and Charwell, the head waters of the Thames. The banks of these streams furnish charming promenades, which were the favourite haunts of Addison, Johnson, and other eminent men, who have imparted a classical character to the scenes of their meditations. In picturesque beauty, the environs of Oxford certainly surpass those of Cambridge. The town is also far superior in the style and taste of its buildings. Its streets are wide, and many of its edifices magnificent. On the top of the Radcliff Library, the spectator finds himself in the centre of nineteen colleges composing the University, and a great number of churches, which lift their domes and Gothic towers around him, affording a coup d'œil of architectural grandeur seldom equalled. But after all, I should prefer the Cam to the Isis. In the antique piles, the venerable halls, and secluded walks upon the banks of the former, there is an air of retirement and classical dignity, which cannot be found in the more modern, stately, and fashionable city of Oxford.

On descending from this point of observation, our guide conducted us to the Collegiate Theatre, appropriated to the literary exercises of the University. Two rostrums in classical style are erected on opposite sides of the hall, whence the prize poems are delivered. The walls are adorned with a splendid likeness of his present majesty, in his royal robes, painted by Sir Thomas Lawrence; as also with portraits of Alexander and the king of Prussia, who in this room received the degree of LL. D. at the time of their celebrated visit. The same honour was conferred on Blucher and others, who were probably unable to construe their diplomas.

In the vicinity of the Collegiate Theatre are the Schools of Philosophy and the Museum, containing the Arundel Marbles, which we had a strong desire to see, but found the doors closed. The guide took us to the chapel of New College, chiefly for the purpose of examining the splendid Gothic window, which is one of the finest specimens of stained glass I have yet seen. The painting itself, on a dif

ferent material, would reflect the highest credit upon the artist. Our tour of observation for the day was concluded by a visit to Christ Church College, which is the largest and most celebrated of the group composing the University. It was founded by Cardinal Woolsey, at the time of his wealth, and influence at court. In construction, it is similar to all the colleges at Oxford, which, like those of Cambridge, are situated round open areas. The centre of the court is ornamented with a large and beautiful fountain, affording a copious supply of water, and imparting a refreshing coolness to the air in summer. We were conducted to the Chapel, which has a bell weighing several tons, classically denominated Magnus Thomas, or Great Tom; to the dining-hall, and other departments of the institution, which are upon a large scale, but do not differ materially from those that have already been described. In short, the government, professorships, modes of education, and the whole internal police of the two Universities are so nearly allied, that after our very satisfactory visit to Cambridge, Oxford presented few novelties; and nothing except the exterior of the place excited a remarkable degree of interest.

On the 20th, we rode to Windsor, forty miles down the Thames, the banks of which were charming even at this season, affording all the richness and variety of the English landscape. Judging from our own observations, Oxfordshire is one of the finest agricultural districts in the country. The road is bordered with wide fields of tillage, and the hills in many places are clothed with a luxuriant growth of wood. Large manufacturing villages rise at intervals along the way; but none of them possess much interest. On arriving at the summit of a moderate eminence, it occasioned in us not a little surprise to be assured, that we were then upon the highest ground in England, over-topping Skiddaw and Scawfell. A pole has been erected to mark the apex. The ascent from the Irish Sea and the British Channel to the top of this swell is so gradual, as to be scarcely perceptible.

At 1 o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived at the village of Slough, and thence set out on foot, to pass the remainder of the day and night at Windsor. On our way thither, a call was made at Eton School, which is situated upon the left bank of the Thames. It is an old two-story building, with broken windows, and in appearance little worthy of its celebrity. A glance was taken at the court, the grounds, the

chapel, and some of the rooms; but there is nothing in the exterior which can interest a stranger.

Crossing the river on a pretty bridge, we entered Windsor, and climbed the steep hill, on which the town is built, to the Castle. Here a guide took us in hand, and showed us all the wonders which the Palace affords. He conducted us through a long suite of apartments, filled with beds, furniture, statues, and pictures, calling them all by name, and singing out his song, in the usual style of showmen, to a gaping crowd of spectators. State beds, crimson cushions, and galleries of family portraits had become an old story with us besides, the favourite palace of his majesty is in all respects far inferior to the houses of many of his subjects. Neither the Castle itself, nor the furniture, will bear a comparison with the seats of several of the noblemen that had been examined.

Its location is extremely beautiful, being seated upon a rock elevated several hundred feet above the Thames, and commanding an extensive view of the meanders of the river, through the fertile meadows by which it is bordered. A single turn upon the terrace, constructed at an immense expense for a promenade in front of the Castle, and a peep into the green elysian vale stretching below, and enriched with all the luxuriance of nature, far surpasses in interest the assemblage of the works of art, which regal wealth has accumulated. So true it is, that in the dispensations of providence, those objects which are the sources of the purest and most lasting enjoyment are equally open to all-free as the air we breathe, the stream that refreshes, and the sun that

warms.

After a delightful promenade upon the terrace, we went to the Chapel Royal, where the king attends public worship. It is a beautiful Gothic edifice, situated upon the declivity below the Castle. The lofty pillars, arches, and ceiling, as well as the decorations of the interior, are scarcely surpassed by any thing of the kind that has met our observation. It was brilliantly lighted up for evening prayers. The porter showed us into the seats of two of the noblemen, who were both absentees. There are no striking peculiarities in the service, except the same sing-song in reading and responding, as was remarked at Lichfield. At the conclusion of the exercises, the choir chanted an anthem, extracted from Handel's Creation. A great number of voices, accompa

nied by a powerful organ, gave a fine effect to the music, the peals of which seemed almost sufficiently loud and animating to break the repose of the royal group, who sleep the sleep of death in the vault below.

It is a singular fact, that the sovereign and court of a nation, which professes to be ultra christian in its sentiments, and has been free in its censures upon other countries for an opposite tendency, should pay so little regard to the Sabbath. At Windsor, Sunday is the fashionable day both for business and amusement. The king sometimes attends church; but he generally selects the Sabbath for inspecting the public works which are going on for his accommodation, at an expense of several hundred thousand pounds-for reviewing military parades--for fishing in his favourite Virginia waters -and for giving splendid dinner parties. On this day the gates of the Palace are flung open, and crowds from London, as well as from the neighbouring country, rush in, to indulge in scenes of gaiety and pleasure, imitating the example of the court.

It was our intention to have visited the Cottage, where his Majesty resides, at the distance of a few miles from Windsor, as also Virginia Water, whither he is fond of resorting in his Pony Phaeton," for exercise, and to forget the cares of state, in the pleasures of angling. But a violent November storm, which beat all night against the windows of the White Hart, and had not entirely subsided by the next morning, changed our plans and determined us to set out for London as soon as possible, leaving the remainder of Windsor, the Forest, Twickenham, Richmond Hill, and the banks of the Thames between the Castle and the metropolis, to be tra versed at a more favourable season.

LETTER XXXII.

SECOND VISIT TO LONDON-AMERICAN LIBRARY-COVENT GARDEN-DRURY LANE-LITERARY DINNER-RIDE TO DOVERDESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN AND CLIFFS-PASSAGE OF THE STRAITS.

November, 1825.-A return to the little circle of our ac quaintances in London, after an absence of several months,

was not without its pleasures, suggesting to the mind a slight image of home. The literary rooms of Mr. Miller were calculated to deepen the impression; for besides the permanent decorations of his apartments, among which are busts of Washington and Franklin, the Declaration of Independence, and an extensive collection of American books, we here found files of papers from every part of our country, containing the body of the times since our departure. In sentiment and feeling, the proprietor of this extensive establishment is. American; and his liberality has done more than that of any other individual to make the literary character of the United States better understood in England. Possessing a discriminating taste, he is in the habit of perusing such books as originate with us, and of selecting those that will bear a re-publication. He has generally been judicious and fortunate in his choice of the numerous productions which issue from the American Press; and to his efforts, rather than to any new era in our literary history, may be ascribed the increased estimation in which transatlantic works are now beld. As such instances of liberality are yet sufficiently rare in Great-Britain, I take very great pleasure in commending the exertions of this gentleman to the favourable notice and patronage of my countrymen.

One evening during our second visit to London was passed at Covent Garden Theatre, to see Kemble personate the character of Charles the Second, in the Merry Monarch. Expectations raised so high as ours had been, by the reputation of this actor, are seldom answered, and a single exhibition of his dramatic talents certainly left not a little disappointment. His person is good, but by no means commanding; and though his acting is chaste, it cannot be considered powerful. Some parts of his performance were tame, falling short of the spirit of the author. In my estimation Cooper is decidedly his superior-in person, port, voice, gesture, and diction. I could not perceive that his entries or exits were marked by any extraordinary applause of the audience. He is nevertheless a favourite with the public, and his histrionic merits are well established. The rest of the company acquitted themselves in a creditable manner; but Covent Garden on that night was as starless as the smoky canopy of London. The theatre itself is a magnificent building, finished much in the style of the Italian Opera House, with splendid furniture, decorations, and scenery,