year 1472. Her exploits are commemorated by an annual procession on the 10th of July, somewhat resembling that at Coventry in England. The Cathedral and one or two other buildings are said to be worth examining; but we remained only long enough to take a postmeridian breakfast, and to catch a glance at the exterior of the place.

The weather continued fine all day, and as long hills frequently compelled us to walk many miles, a fair opportunity was enjoyed of seeing every thing worthy of notice upon the road. From the tops of some of the eminences, our horizon embraced a wide circuit. Chateaux, corresponding to the houses of the nobility in England, are frequent along the way; but they are generally in a shattered condition, and in point of taste and elegance cannot be compared with the seats of British noblemen. The Revolution gave a shock to this description of property, from which it has not yet recovered since the restoration of the ancient regime. As far as I could judge at this season, the lands are tolerably well cultivated; but there are few marks of that substantial wealth among the peasantry, which may be seen in every part of our country. The labouring classes appear to be 'poor, holding their small parcels of ground by a kind of feudal tenure, which has a tendency to check agricultural improvements.

At 10 o'clock in the evening, the Diligence reached St. Denis, a large and celebrated village five miles from Paris. It has a church, which boasts of great antiquity, and is distinguished as the cemetery of many of the royal family. Here sleep the ashes of Louis XVI. and his Queen Maria Antoinette, the Duke de Berry, Prince Conde, and Louis, XVIII. The edifice was demolished in the time of the Revolution, and the dust of the dead, as well as numerous relics and curiosities, were scattered to the winds. It was rebuilt by Napoleon, who enriched it among other ornaments with the splendid altar before which his nuptials with Maria Louisa were celebrated, as also with the bronze gates that were designed to form the entrance to his tomb.

Another hour took us by Belleville and Chaumont to Montmartre, whence was obtained the first view of the lights of Paris. Entering by the northern suburbs, and descending rapidly through a labyrinth of narrow streets, under lamps suspended from ropes extending from side to side, twenty or thirty feet above the pavement, we at length reach

ed the Messagerie Royale, the rendezvous of public coaches, in a central part of the city. It is an immense establishment, where Diligences are seen arriving and departing at all hours to and from every part of the kingdom. Here our passports were again demanded, and our baggage underwent another examination. It was however very slight. The officer merely unlocked our trunks, and thrust his hand down each side, in our presence.

A swarm of runners and waiters from the hotels, still more numerous and importunate than the host on the quay at Calais, besieged us, with cards in their hands, and all jabbering at the same moment. After a train of vexatious circumstances, accommodations were obtained for the night; and in a day or two, a fine suite of apartments in the Rue Montmartre, a central part of the city, were rented on moderate terms, where we went to lodgings, and lived very pleasantly during our visit to Paris.

LETTER XXXIV.

PARIS--FUNERAL OF GENERAL FOY--PERE LA CHAISE--MORGUE-POLICE-NOTRE DAME-VIEW FROM ITS TOWERS-OUTLINES OF THE CITY-CORONATION ROBES OF NAPOLEON AND OTHER REGALIA-HOSPITALS-HOTEL DIEU.

November-December, 1825.- -We found the city of fashion, gaiety, and dissipation, dissolved in tears and clad in the habiliments of woe-a spectacle, which probably is not witnessed once in half a century. The death of General Foy, distinguished as a soldier and a statesman, esteemed for his talents, but still more for his integrity, his public and private virtues, created a sensation in the French metropolis, which I had supposed nothing short of a recurrence of the scenes of the Revolution, or another visit from the allied armies could produce. His funeral obsequies were attended on the day after our arrival. All classes of an enthusiastic people, from the nobility down to the humbler walks of life, appeared to participate in the tribute of respect to the remains of a man, who was universally known and as universally beloved. Every street through which the procession was to pass, in its progress from the church of Notre Dame,

in which the funeral rites were solemnized, to the cemetery of Pere La Chaise, where the General was buried, a distance of two or three miles, was thronged with spectators, of both sexes, in carriages and on foot, who remained all day in the rain, to witness the military parade and pompous

ceremony.

Our little party took a fiacre, (answering very nearly to a hackney coach in London or New-York,) and joined the multitude, whose different equipages, costumes, customs, and manners, afforded much more interest, than the mere interment of a great man, who was comparatively unknown to us, and whose death could therefore occasion nothing more than a general sympathy for another instance of the common lot. A remarkable degree of order and decorum prevailed throughout the immense crowd, whose feelings seemed hallowed by the solemn occasion. There were no > riots-no quarrels for places-none of that noisy and boisterous confusion, observable among the populace of England, and sometimes amidst large collections of people in our own country. While the procession was passing, not a voice was heard above a whisper, in the innumerable concourse, and if there chanced to be the least movement or bustle, a hiss soon checked the breach of decorum. The only confusion arose from the struggles of a company of young men, belonging to one of the public institutions, who were ambitious of carrying the corpse of General Foy, and were so euthusiastic, as to resist the arrangements for the ceremony, and to press their claims to the honour, till the hearse had arrived at the very gates of the cemetery. Every few minutes, they would rush up to the coffin, whence they were driven back by the military escort, but without any act of violence.

The whole day, from 10 or 11 o'clock in the morning, was occupied in the solemnity. We rode to Pere La Chaise at an early hour, and there waited till dark, expecting every moment the approach of the procession. Just in the dusk of evening, the flambeaux were seen to glare along the avenues, and upon the multitude of faces thronging the sides of the way. A long array of the military, carriages, and citizens on foot followed the nodding plumes of the hearse, occupying nearly half an hour in passing the gates of the burying-ground. It was impossible for us to make our way through the crowd, and approach near enough to witness the

ceremony at the grave. Gleams of the funeral torches were alone distinguishable. The interment was not completed till 7 or 8 o'clock.

A temporary monument was erected over the grave, and hung with garlands of flowers in a few days after the burial; and the sum of eight or nine hundred thousand francs has since been raised by subscription, to defray the expense of a public mausoleum to the memory of the General, and to provide for his family. La Fitte, a rich banker, set the example of liberality by subscribing 50,000 francs, or 10,000 dollars. The day after the funeral, portraits, prints, and biographical sketches of General Foy, as well as the élegiac effusions of the Gallic Muse, were for sale at all the shops in Paris. The papers were filled with eulogiums; pocket-handkerchiefs were struck off, bearing likenesses of the deceased; and in short, his name met you at every turn in the streets. He was of the liberal, or rather moderate party in politics, agreeing in sentiment with General La Fayette, of whom he was a personal friend. His death has produced a strong sensation in the public mind, not only at Paris, but throughout France, giving strength to the republican cause, in the guise of honours to his memory.

Our casual attendance at the interment of General Foy, and a subsequent visit on a day more favourable for observation, afforded us a full opportunity of examining the cemetery of Pere La Chaise, which is the great repository of the dead at Paris, and reflects infinite credit upon the city, as well as upon the character of the French people. In all respects it very far surpasses any thing of the kind I have ever seen, and the design strongly recommends itself to the imitation of all great cities.

Pere La Chaise is in the eastern suburbs of Paris, situated upon the declivity of Mont Louis, about three miles from the centre of the city. Its appellation is derived from a Jesuit of the same name, who was confessor to Louis XIV. and at one time presided over the ecclesiastical affairs of France. As a recompense for his arduous services, his sovereign gave him this beautiful eminence, and built him a chateau near its summit, which was once the seat of the intrigues of his powerful order. Its site is at present occupied by a large and handsome chapel, approached by a lofty flight of steps, lighted at top by a dome, and surmounted by a eross, forming a conspicuous object at a distance. The

edifice has recently been erected, and is destitute of any ornaments, or interesting associations, other than those that have been named.

The cemetery itself was commenced in 1804, under the auspices of Napoleon, and the superintendence of M. Brongniart. Its location is charming, commanding a full view of Paris and its romantic environs. The enclosure comprises an area of about seventy acres, on a surface so broken and diversified, as to embrace a great variety of natural scenery-rocks, bills, and deep vales. In many places the acclivity is so steep, as to render terraces and flights of steps necessary. The whole is encircled by a substantial and handsome fence. In front, there is a semi-circular recess, with lofty portals conducting to the principal avenues, which are wide gravel walks, and extend by the chapel to the extremity of the grounds. The gate is finished in a style of architecture, and with ornaments suited to the place, bearing over the top a Latin version of the following passage from the book of Job:-" For I know that my Redeemer liveth, and that I shall rise from the earth in the latter day.” On the right, are inscribed the words of the Evangelist—“ For he that believeth in me, though he were dead, shall live :”—and on the left of the gate is another inscription equally appropriate" Their hope is full of immortality.”

Such is the entrance to this great receptacle of the dead: and surely nothing can be more chaste in design, or more consonant with the spirit of the christian religion. Here are no altars erected to the "unknown God"-no evidences of those atheistical or deistical notions, which French philosophers have been accused of entertaining. The area of the cemetery is beautifully shaded with cypress and other evergreens, amidst the lively verdure of which the white marble monuments and tomb-stones, in every possible form, and wrought with much elegance, produce the finest and most picturesque effect. In some cases a solitary shrub hangs its sombre tresses over a grave; while in others, the monumental marble is completely embowered by the green branches. Every stone, every plant, every turf is adjusted with perfect taste. But the most striking and interesting features in the cemetery are the little marks of remembrance, feeling, and affection which the French manifest for their departed friends. Every variety of ornament has been devised to decorate the tombs. Most of them are enclosed by a